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When it comes to the best wood for a cutting board, a few classics consistently top the list: Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. These dense, closed-grain hardwoods are tough enough for daily chopping, gentle on your knife’s edge, and naturally discourage bacteria. It's no wonder they're the go-to choices for professional chefs and home cooks alike.
Picking the right wood for a cutting board is about more than just aesthetics. It’s a decision that directly impacts the life of your knives, the safety of your food, and how long the board itself will last.
Think of it as the foundation of your kitchen prep. A poor choice can dull a good knife in weeks, become a breeding ground for germs, or warp into a wobbly mess after a few washes.
The perfect cutting board material strikes a delicate balance. It needs to be hard enough to resist deep gouges where bacteria love to hide, yet soft enough that it won't damage a finely honed blade with every slice. This is precisely why not all hardwoods make the cut.
Some woods, like Red Oak, have large, open pores that act like tiny sponges, while others are so incredibly dense and brittle they can chip or dull even the best Japanese steel.
This is why seasoned woodworkers and culinary pros always come back to a select few species. They’re looking for a specific trifecta of traits:
The chart below shows the Janka hardness ratings for the three most recommended woods, giving you a quick visual of where they stand.
As you can see, Maple is the toughest of the three, making it exceptionally durable. Walnut and Cherry offer a slightly softer surface that is famously gentle on high-end cutlery.
To make your decision even easier, let’s quickly compare the core traits of these three trusted hardwoods. Each one brings a unique blend of performance and style to the kitchen, and understanding their differences is the key to choosing a board you'll love for years to come.
| Wood Species | Janka Hardness (lbf) | Grain Type | Appearance | Knife Friendliness |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hard Maple | 1,450 | Closed, fine | Creamy white to light brown; uniform texture | Excellent |
| Black Walnut | 1,010 | Closed, straight | Rich, dark brown with beautiful grain patterns | Superior |
| Cherry | 950 | Closed, fine | Warm reddish-brown that deepens with age | Superior |
Each of these species makes a fantastic, long-lasting cutting surface. The best one for you really comes down to your personal taste in colour and how you balance durability with knife care.
Ever wonder what makes one piece of wood a culinary workhorse while another is destined to crack, dull your knives, or worse, become a hygiene nightmare? It’s not just about looks. The secret lies in a few key properties that separate the best woods for cutting boards from all the rest. Once you understand them, you can choose a board that truly performs in the kitchen.
It all starts with hardness. It seems logical that the hardest wood you can find would make the best board, but that’s a common mistake. The perfect cutting board exists in a "Goldilocks Zone" of durability—not too hard, and not too soft.
To get an objective measure of wood hardness, we use the Janka hardness scale. This test measures the force (in pounds-force, or lbf) it takes to press a small steel ball into a piece of wood. It's a simple, reliable way to compare different species.
Too Soft (like Pine at 380 lbf): Softwoods will get chewed up with every single knife cut. Those deep gashes create the perfect hiding spots for moisture and bacteria, making the board impossible to clean properly and frankly, unhygienic.
Too Hard (like Brazilian Ebony at 3,400 lbf): On the flip side, super-dense woods are like chopping on a rock. They offer zero "give," and that unforgiving surface will dull your expensive chef's knife in no time, sending you back to the sharpener way too often.
The sweet spot for a cutting board is generally between 900 and 1,500 lbf. This range is tough enough to handle daily chopping but has just enough give to be kind to your knife's edge. This is exactly why species like Black Walnut (1,010 lbf) and Hard Maple (1,450 lbf) are favourites.
Beyond hardness, the wood’s pore structure, or porosity, is a massive factor for food safety. Picture a wood’s grain as a bundle of microscopic straws. In some woods, those straws are wide open, and in others, they are sealed up tight.
A closed-grain structure is non-negotiable for a hygienic cutting surface. It acts as a natural barrier, preventing liquids, food particles, and bacteria from penetrating deep into the wood where they can't be washed away.
Woods with large, visible pores like Red Oak and Ash are called open-pored. They act like tiny sponges, soaking up moisture and trapping food particles—a recipe for an unsanitary mess. In contrast, closed-grain woods like Maple, Walnut, and Cherry have tiny, dense pores. This creates a much safer, non-absorbent, and easy-to-clean surface, making them the undisputed champions for any food prep project.
Finally, you have to consider what’s naturally inside the wood itself. Some gorgeous exotic woods contain toxins or oils that can cause allergic reactions or, even worse, leach into your food. They might look amazing, but they are completely unsuitable for kitchen use. Always double-check that a species is food-safe before you even think about starting a project.
Another hidden troublemaker is silica content. Certain woods, especially some tropical species, pull silica from the soil as they grow. This high mineral content essentially turns the wood into a fine-grit sandpaper, which is brutal on your woodworking tools and will absolutely destroy the sharp edge on your kitchen knives.
By keeping these three core principles in mind—Janka hardness, porosity, and food safety—you can confidently size up any wood species. This knowledge takes you beyond guesswork, allowing you to make an informed choice. You'll end up with a cutting board that isn't just beautiful, but also durable, safe, and a genuine pleasure to use for years to come.
Beyond choosing the right wood, the way a cutting board is built is a huge deal. It affects everything from how long your knives stay sharp to how the board itself holds up over the years. The two main styles you’ll see are end grain and edge grain, and knowing the difference is key to picking the right one for your kitchen.
To get the picture, think of a bundle of drinking straws standing on end. An end grain board is like chopping on the tops of those straws. Your knife slips between the vertical wood fibres instead of cutting across them. This is what makes end grain boards famous for being so easy on your knives and having that amazing "self-healing" quality.
Now, imagine turning that same bundle of straws on its side. That’s an edge grain board. The wood fibres run horizontally, giving you a tough, stable, and more budget-friendly cutting surface that’s built like a tank.
If you’ve invested in high-quality knives and want to keep them razor-sharp, an end grain cutting board is the gold standard. There’s simply nothing better for preserving a blade’s edge.
When you chop, the knife’s edge gently parts the vertical wood fibres, which close back up once you lift the blade. This means far less wear and tear on your knife, so it stays sharper, longer. It’s no accident that professional butchers have sworn by end grain blocks for generations.
The self-healing nature of an end grain board isn't just a gimmick; it's a functional benefit that preserves both your knives and the board's surface. Minor cuts and scratches tend to disappear as the wood fibres rebound, keeping the surface smoother over time.
This construction also creates a stunning visual, usually a checkerboard pattern that shows off the beautiful growth rings of the wood. But all that craftsmanship doesn't come cheap.
Edge grain boards are the trusty workhorses of the kitchen. They’re made by gluing long strips of hardwood together with the grain running horizontally. The result is a solid, continuous cutting surface that’s highly durable and resists warping.
While it's not quite as forgiving on a blade as its end grain cousin, a well-made edge grain board is still a massive step up from plastic or bamboo. It gives you a reliable, sturdy surface that can handle years of daily abuse.
Because they’re simpler to build, edge grain boards are much more affordable and easier to find. They also need a bit less maintenance, since the sealed grain is less likely to soak up moisture. For most home cooks and woodworkers looking for the best balance of performance and value, edge grain is a fantastic choice.
So, what’s the final word? It really boils down to your priorities. Are you after the ultimate in knife care and a self-healing surface, or is durability and budget at the top of your list? Either way, when made from the right hardwood, both styles make a phenomenal cutting board.
Alright, we've covered the science behind what makes a great cutting board and the difference between end grain and edge grain construction. Now for the fun part: let's meet the all-stars of the cutting board world.
These North American hardwoods are famous for a reason. They hit that perfect sweet spot of durability, food safety, and jaw-dropping good looks. Getting to know their individual personalities is the key to picking the right one for your kitchen.
We’re going to profile the top three contenders—Hard Maple, Black Walnut, and Cherry—and break down what makes each one a fantastic choice. From how they behave in the workshop to how they perform on your countertop, you'll get a clear picture of what each species brings to the table.
When you picture a classic, heavy-duty wooden cutting board, you’re probably thinking of Hard Maple (Acer saccharum). It’s the undisputed champion in professional kitchens and workshops, known for its creamy white to light golden hue and a subtle, uniform grain. Its clean, bright look provides fantastic contrast when you're prepping colourful veggies, making it as practical as it is beautiful.
But its real strength is its density. Here in Hamilton, Ontario—smack in the middle of Canada's hardwood country—maple is king. It's been the go-to for cutting boards since the 1800s for its incredible durability. Hard Maple scores a whopping 1,450 lbf on the Janka hardness scale, making it tough enough to handle daily chopping without quickly dulling your knives.
Better yet, a 2018 study from the Canadian Wood Council found that maple's tight grain helps it resist moisture, allowing it to reduce bacterial contamination by up to 99.9% after proper cleaning.
Why Choose Maple? For its incredible durability, bright and clean aesthetic, and proven track record of food safety. It's the toughest of our top three, making it perfect for heavy, everyday use.
Maple is also a dream to work with in the shop. It machines cleanly, sands to a silky-smooth finish, and glues up perfectly, which is essential for building a rock-solid end grain or edge grain board.
If Maple is the bright and sturdy workhorse, Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) is the sophisticated showpiece. It's celebrated for its deep, chocolate-brown colouring and complex grain patterns that can feature gorgeous swirls and character. A Walnut board brings an immediate sense of luxury to any kitchen.
Its performance is just as impressive as its looks. With a Janka hardness of 1,010 lbf, Black Walnut is right in that "Goldilocks Zone." It's tough enough to last for years, but it has a slightly softer surface that is famously gentle on high-end knife edges. That’s why you’ll often find it in the kitchens of chefs who are serious about their cutlery.
Black Walnut is an amazing choice for a statement piece, like a charcuterie board that doubles as a serving platter. To see how it stacks up against other hardwoods, check out our complete wood species guide.
Cherry (Prunus serotina) is loved for the graceful way it ages. It starts out as a light, pinkish-brown wood and slowly deepens into a rich, reddish-brown patina as it's exposed to light. This beautiful transformation means a Cherry cutting board just gets better with age, developing a unique character that tells the story of every meal you've made.
With a Janka hardness of 950 lbf, Cherry is the softest of our top three. This makes it exceptionally kind to your knives—maybe more so than any other premium hardwood. While it might show knife marks a bit more readily than Maple, its fine, straight grain and smooth texture make for a satisfying and forgiving cutting surface.
The warm, inviting colour of Cherry complements just about any kitchen decor, from rustic to modern. It's also easy to work with, sanding down smoothly and taking a finish that really brings out its natural lustre. A Cherry board is the perfect choice for anyone who appreciates materials that evolve and become true kitchen heirlooms over time.
While domestic hardwoods like Maple and Walnut are the trusted workhorses of the cutting board world, sometimes a project just calls for a little more flair. That's where exotic woods come in. They offer a vibrant palette of colours and bold grain patterns that can turn a simple kitchen tool into a piece of functional art. Fiery red Padauk, deep purple Purpleheart, and striking black Wenge can create an incredible visual impact that classic woods just can't match.
But venturing into the world of exotics requires a bit more know-how. These species often play by their own set of rules when it comes to workability, food safety, and long-term stability. Understanding their unique quirks is key before you even think about making sawdust.
Working with exotic woods is a whole different ball game compared to their domestic cousins. Many are significantly harder and denser, which can be tough on your tools and demand a slower, more patient approach when machining. Wenge, for example, has a Janka hardness of around 1,930 lbf, making it far more dense and demanding than Hard Maple.
Beyond just hardness, you have to think about colour stability and the potential for "bleeding." The brilliant hues of some exotics can sometimes leach into lighter-coloured woods when you glue them up, a frustrating process known as colour bleed. This can easily muddy the crisp, clean lines you’re trying to create in a multi-wood pattern.
A great shop habit when working with vibrant exotics like Padauk or Purpleheart is to do a small test glue-up with scraps. Use a clear, non-yellowing glue. This quick test will show you if any colour transfer is going to happen before you commit to the final project.
Not every exotic wood belongs in the kitchen, but several have proven to be both safe and absolutely stunning choices. The best ones have closed-grain structures and are non-toxic once finished, making them perfect candidates for a show-stopping board.
The number one rule when choosing any wood—especially an exotic—is to confirm it’s non-toxic and suitable for a cutting board. Some tropical species contain natural oils or compounds that can cause irritation or are otherwise unsafe for preparing food. Always do your homework on the specific species you plan to use.
Pay close attention to the grain, too. While many exotics have a suitably closed-grain structure, some, like Wenge, can be more porous. For these woods, an end-grain construction is often less ideal, and a flawless finish with food-grade oil is absolutely critical to seal the surface completely.
To find the perfect piece for your next project, you can explore our full exotic wood selection and find a species that truly matches your creative vision.
Crafting a beautiful cutting board is one thing, but making it last a lifetime? That all comes down to the finish and a little bit of regular care. The right maintenance routine is simple, but it's what protects the wood, keeps it food-safe, and ensures your board looks just as good in ten years as it does today.
Think of a freshly made cutting board as thirsty wood. Its pores are wide open, ready to soak up anything they touch—water, juice from meats, and bacteria. The first, most critical job is to quench that thirst with a food-safe finish that seals and protects it from the inside out.
For any of the wood types for cutting boards we’ve talked about, the best finish is a classic one-two punch: food-grade mineral oil followed by a beeswax conditioner. This combination is totally non-toxic, a breeze to apply, and works incredibly well.
First up is food-grade mineral oil. This stuff is your go-to conditioner because it’s a non-drying oil, which means it will never go rancid or sticky like cooking oils (looking at you, olive oil). The oil sinks deep into the wood fibres, hydrating them and preventing the board from drying out and cracking over time.
Next, a good conditioner made from beeswax and mineral oil adds a tough second layer of defence. The beeswax creates a water-resistant barrier right on the surface, helping to bead up moisture and stop stains in their tracks. This topcoat also gives the wood a beautiful low-lustre sheen and a silky-smooth feel. If you want to dive deeper into different finishing options, you can learn more by mastering wood finishing techniques in our comprehensive guide.
Proper care isn't complicated. In fact, it's just a few simple habits that will keep your board hygienic and looking fantastic for years.
Initial Seasoning: When a board is brand new, it’s extra thirsty. Give it a deep initial oiling by generously applying food-grade mineral oil to every surface. Let it soak in for a few hours or even overnight, then wipe off any excess.
Regular Oiling: To keep the wood hydrated, reapply a coat of mineral oil whenever the board starts to look a bit dry or faded. For a board you use regularly, that’s usually about once a month.
Daily Cleaning: After you use it, just wash the board by hand with a little mild soap and warm water. Towel-dry it immediately and—this is important—let it air dry standing on its edge. This ensures all sides dry out evenly.
The single fastest way to destroy a wooden cutting board is to put it in the dishwasher. The intense heat and long soak will make the wood warp, split, and pop the glue joints. It’s a guaranteed board-killer.
By following these simple finishing and care steps, you’re not just cleaning a board; you’re preserving your craftsmanship. You'll ensure it remains a safe, durable, and beautiful centrepiece in your kitchen for countless meals to come.
As you get ready to pick out the perfect lumber for your cutting board, a few common questions always seem to pop up. Getting straight answers to these can clear up any lingering doubts and give you total confidence in your choice. Let's tackle some of the ones we hear most often.
While there’s a great selection of suitable hardwoods, some woods are a definite no-go for any food prep surface. To keep your board safe and functional, you need to steer clear of three main categories.
Softwoods: Woods like pine and fir are just too soft for the job. Your knife will gouge them with every cut, leaving deep grooves that are a nightmare to clean and a perfect hiding spot for bacteria.
Open-Pored Woods: Species like Red Oak and Ash have large, open pores that act like tiny sponges. They’ll soak up moisture and juices making them a serious hygiene risk. Always stick to closed-grain hardwoods.
Toxic Woods: Some woods contain natural oils or compounds that can trigger allergic reactions or are outright toxic. It’s critical to avoid species like Rosewood, Yew, or any others known for potential health concerns.
This question comes up all the time, and it makes sense—bamboo boards are everywhere. But here's the thing: bamboo isn't technically a wood. It's a grass. To make a board, strips of bamboo are laminated together with a whole lot of adhesive and resin, which creates an incredibly hard surface.
This extreme density, often harder than Hard Maple, is really tough on your knives. Many chefs and woodworkers prefer traditional hardwoods like Walnut or Cherry because they offer a more forgiving surface that helps keep a knife's edge sharper for much longer.
Epoxy river boards look amazing, but their role in the kitchen is a bit controversial. While most modern epoxies are rated as "food-safe" for incidental contact once fully cured, chopping directly on the resin is a different story.
A sharp knife can easily chip or slice off tiny plastic particles from the epoxy, and you definitely don't want those mixing with your dinner. Because of this, it's best to reserve epoxy for decorative elements on charcuterie or serving boards where you won't be doing any heavy cutting. If you do use it, make sure you choose a brand that is specifically rated as food-safe.
A board's thickness is what gives it stability and helps it resist warping over the years. The right thickness really depends on how you build it.
Ready to get started on your project with confidence? At The Knotty Lumber Co., we stock a premium selection of kiln-dried, food-safe hardwoods like Maple, Walnut, and Cherry, all perfect for creating a durable and beautiful cutting board. Explore our collection of project-ready lumber today!
