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Welcome to The Ultimate Guide to Hardwoods & Specialty Lumber. This is your one-stop resource for everything you didn’t know you needed to know about wood. Whether you’re a seasoned craftsman, a weekend DIYer, or you just Googled “what is hardwood” five minutes ago, this guide will walk you through the lumberyard maze with ease.
So grab your tape measure (if you can find it, and maybe a coffee too), and let’s get started!
Hardwood lumber comes from deciduous trees. They are the broadleaf trees that shed their leaves annually in the fall. Species like oak, maple, walnut, cherry, and ash are all considered hardwoods. Despite the name, “hardwood” doesn’t always mean the wood is physically hard. The term refers to the type of tree, not necessarily its density or toughness.
Hardwood trees are angiosperms, meaning they reproduce via flowers and seeds enclosed in fruits or pods (i.e. acorns or walnuts). Their lumber typically features dense, complex grain structures, which often makes hardwoods stronger, heavier, and more visually striking than softwoods. This is why hardwoods are commonly used in furniture, flooring, cabinetry, countertops, musical instruments, and other high-end woodworking projects where durability and appearance matter.
Notable Examples:
Hardwood species grow worldwide. Domestic hardwoods like Maple, Walnut, and Oak are North American staples. Exotic hardwoods like Purpleheart, Padauk, and Wenge hail from the tropics, adding vibrant colors and unique grains to your projects.
Domestic Hardwood Examples
| Hard Maple | Black Walnut | White Oak |
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Exotic Hardwood Examples
| Purpleheart | Padauk | Wenge |
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Durability, beauty, and versatility. Hardwoods offer richer colors, tighter grains, and long-lasting strength. Whether it’s a dining table that’ll outlive you or a charcuterie board that steals the show, hardwood elevates every project.
Softwoods come from coniferous trees like pines, spruces, and firs. These are your evergreen trees, staying green year-round with needle-like leaves and cones. Softwood species tend to grow faster, resulting in lighter, less dense wood that’s easier to cut, nail, and shape. The hardwood vs. softwood distinction is rooted in botany, not in material properties.
Hardwoods come from angiosperms. Flowering plants that reproduce through seeds enclosed in fruits or pods. These trees have a complex structure with vessels (pores) that create the distinctive grain patterns we love in fine furniture and flooring.
Softwoods come from gymnosperms. They are trees that reproduce using exposed seeds, like pinecones. Their structure is simpler, made up of long fibers called tracheids, which gives softwoods a more uniform, straight grain, making them ideal for framing lumber, millwork, and construction.
Nope. It all depends on what you’re building.
Hardwoods are typically chosen for projects where strength, durability, and appearance matter. These projects include flooring, cabinetry, fine furniture, or that heirloom dining table you plan to pass down. They’re often more expensive, but the payoff is in longevity and aesthetics.
Softwoods, being lighter and easier to work with, are the backbone of construction projects. You’ll find them in studs, beams, sheathing, and paneling. They’re also popular for outdoor projects like decking and fencing. This is especially true for species like cedar that have natural resistance to rot and insects.
In the world of woodworking, it’s not about “hardwood is better, softwood is cheaper.” It’s about the right material for the right job.
One reason hardwoods often hit the wallet harder is time. Hardwood trees grow slower, which means a longer wait before harvesting. Their denser structure also makes milling more labor-intensive. Combine that with desirable aesthetics (think of the figure in in curly maple or the rich chocolate tones of walnut), and you’ve got yourself a premium material.
Softwoods grow fast, with some pine species can be harvested in just 20 years. This makes them a renewable, economical option for large-scale building needs. That’s why your local lumberyard is stacked sky-high with SPF (Spruce-Pine-Fir) studs and plywood.
Understanding the difference between hardwoods and softwoods isn’t just trivia. It’s foundational knowledge that guides material choices for every project. Whether you’re crafting a custom walnut countertop or framing out a workshop wall, the right wood species makes all the difference in how the job turns out (and how much it costs).
In this guide, we’re going to break down everything you need to know about hardwoods and softwoods. Whether its species profiles, pros and cons, common uses, and even how to tell them apart with a simple glance.
By the end, you’ll be able to walk into any lumberyard and know what you’re looking at, and not just by the label... By the grain, the colour, the weight, the feel, and in some cases, even the smell.
Let’s dive in.
These are the go-to woods for North American woodworkers. Walnut brings rich chocolate tones, Maple is prized for its strength and clean look, Cherry darkens beautifully with age, Ash offers a light grain perfect for staining, and Oak is a classic for its rugged durability.
If you want your project to shout “custom masterpiece,” exotic woods are your best bet. Purpleheart turns heads with its vivid purple hue, Wenge’s deep espresso tones add luxury, and Zebrawood’s bold stripes bring a wild side to woodworking.
If you want your project to feel warm, welcoming, and effortlessly workable, softwoods are the way to go. From the fragrant purple tones of Aromatic Cedar to the utilitarian affordability of pine and spruce, these species offer versatility without the weight or cost of hardwoods. Whether you are framing, crafting décor, or building your first project, softwoods provide smooth cuts, easy shaping, and timeless natural charm.
Whether you're building a rustic farmhouse table, a sleek modern cabinet, or a simple DIY shelf, knowing your wood makes all the difference. Each type of wood from rich domestic staples to bold exotics and even versatile engineered products, brings unique strengths to the table. Choosing the right material isn’t just about looks. It’s about matching the characteristics of the wood to the demands of your project. With this species spotlight in your back pocket, you’re better equipped to pick materials that elevate your craftsmanship and make your next build stand out.
Hardwood lumber is measured in a variety of ways. These include by board foot, linear foot, and square foot.
A board foot is a volume measurement:
1 board foot = 12” x 12” x 1”.
(Length in inches) x (width in inches) / 144 = total board feet in a piece
A board that’s 6” wide, 2” thick, and 36” long =
(6 x 2 x 36) / 144 = 3 board feet.
The most applicable for when volume is important. Buying rough cut hardwood is the best example
Square footage is a surface area measurement:
1 square foot = 12” x 12”
(Length in inches) x (width in inches) / 144 = total square feet in a piece
OR
(Length in feet) x (Width in inches) / 12 = total square feet in a piece
OR
(Length in feet) x (Width in feet) = total square feet in a piece
A board that’s 6” wide and 36” long =
(6 x 36) / 144 = 1.5 square feet.
The best example for when square footage is used would be for covering the surface of something. Flooring and wall cladding are good examples.
1 linear foot = 12 inches
(Length in inches) / 12 = total square feet in a piece
OR
(Length in feet) = total linear feet in a piece
A board that’s 96” long =
96 / 12 = 8 Linear feet.
The best example for when linear footage is used would be for products with consistent widths. Baseboards and crown moulding are good examples
Note: These are nominal thicknesses—actual thickness is less due to surfacing.
Always plan for 10–20% extra to account for defects, cuts, and mistakes. Live edge slabs or rustic grades? Bump that to 25 to 50%.
Dimensional lumber refers to wood that has been cut, planed, and milled to standardized sizes with precise edges and uniform thickness. Unlike live edge slabs, where the tree’s natural contours are preserved, dimensional lumber is squared off for consistency and ease of use. You’ll typically find it in common thicknesses such as 4/4 (1"), 6/4 (1.5"), or 8/4 (2"), and widths and lengths are often planed smooth for a ready-to-use surface.
Dimensional lumber is available in both domestic species like Maple, Oak, Cherry, and Walnut, as well as exotics like Purpleheart, Padauk, and Wenge. Because it’s milled to exact specifications, it’s the go-to choice for furniture making, cabinetry, flooring, and any project requiring tight joinery and predictable performance.
Dimensional lumber is prized for its reliability, versatility, and efficiency. Its standardized sizing makes it easier to calculate board feet, plan cuts, and minimize waste during construction. Whether you’re a beginner crafting your first cutting board or a professional building fine furniture, dimensional stock provides the clean, uniform foundation that keeps projects precise and consistent.
Live edge lumber refers to wood slabs that retain the natural contours of the tree’s edge rather than being squared off into uniform, straight lines. Unlike traditional lumber, where the edges are cut and milled for precise dimensions, live edge slabs preserve the organic, flowing lines of the tree’s original growth. You’ll often see bark, knots, sapwood streaks, and natural imperfections left intact, making each piece truly one-of-a-kind.
Live edge wood is typically sourced from slabs of hardwood species like Black Walnut, Maple, Cherry, Oak, and a wide range of exotics such as Acacia, Padauk, Purpleheart, Canarywood, Italian Olivewood, and more. These slabs are cut horizontally through the log, maintaining the outer “live” edge on one or both sides, depending on the desired application.
Originally, live edge slabs were seen as too irregular for conventional furniture making. But today, that very irregularity is celebrated. Designers and woodworkers alike are embracing the raw, natural beauty of live edge lumber, incorporating it into high-end tables, countertops, shelves, mantels, and more.
No two trees grow the same way, and no two live edge slabs will ever be identical. The curves, knots, bark inclusions, and grain patterns are dictated by nature’s hand, not a machine’s template. This uniqueness gives every project a story—whether it’s a dining table that follows the gentle wave of the tree’s trunk or a coffee table with a dramatic void where a branch once sprouted.
Live edge lumber brings a touch of the outdoors into any space. The unrefined edges soften the mechanical look of modern furniture and create a natural, organic flow. It’s a perfect choice for homeowners or designers seeking to balance clean lines with rustic or nature-inspired elements. The aesthetic bridges rustic farmhouse, modern-industrial, and even minimalist settings by introducing a tactile warmth that mass-produced furniture can’t replicate.
While often associated with rustic décor, live edge lumber is remarkably versatile. It can be finished to a high-gloss sheen for a sleek, modern look or left matte and textured for a rugged, earthy vibe. Pair it with steel legs for an industrial statement piece or mount it as floating shelves for a subtle yet striking focal point. The adaptability of live edge slabs allows woodworkers and designers to cater to a variety of styles without losing the wood’s natural character.
Live edge lumber often makes use of sections of a tree that might otherwise be considered unusable in traditional milling. Instead of cutting around knots, curves, or voids, these features are highlighted as part of the design. This reduces waste and promotes sustainable woodworking practices. Many sawmills and wood suppliers focus on salvaging fallen or storm-damaged trees specifically for live edge slabs, adding another layer of eco-conscious appeal.
Working with live edge lumber requires a hands-on, craftsman approach. Every slab has its quirks and challenges: voids that need filling, bark inclusions that require stabilization, or curves that dictate the piece’s orientation. This level of craftsmanship ensures that the final product isn’t just another piece of furniture—it’s a functional work of art. It also gives woodworkers the opportunity to showcase their skills, offering custom work that commands premium prices.
Live edge lumber isn’t just a trend; it’s a celebration of wood’s raw, untamed beauty. It stands apart from cookie-cutter, mass-produced furniture by bringing the tree’s unique story directly into homes, offices, and commercial spaces. Whether you’re a craftsman looking to elevate your portfolio or a homeowner seeking a centerpiece with character, live edge lumber offers a perfect blend of nature, artistry, and timeless appeal.
Wood weight varies! Here’s a quick look (weights are rough averages for kiln-dried lumber):
Janka measures how hard a wood is to dent. Higher = harder.
Examples
Denser woods are heavier and may be harder to machine but often polish beautifully.
Some woods love finish. Others... not so much.
Wood expands/contracts with humidity. Make sure to plan for it.
Tip: Leave room for movement in joints, especially tabletops.
The National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA) sets the standard for hardwood grading in North America. Think of it like Yelp for wood, except more strict. Grades help buyers know how much clear, usable wood they’re getting.
Pro Tip: Rustic wood is often cheaper per board foot but may yield less usable material after trimming. Generally this is a term used to describe #1 and #2 common lumber.
Selecting the right hardwood for your project is part art, part science. The “best” wood depends on what you’re building, your budget, your tools, and the aesthetic you’re going for. Below is a breakdown of the main factors to keep in mind.
When assessing wood types for a project, consider:
To pick the right wood, you must ask yourself:
Choosing the right wood is more than picking something that looks good. It’s about matching the properties of the wood to the demands of the project.
Here’s how different uses call for different species:
For tables, chairs, dressers, and other high-use pieces, you need wood that can withstand daily wear without losing its charm.
💡 Tip: For heirloom-quality pieces, choose kiln-dried boards with consistent moisture content to avoid warping over time.
Cutting boards take repeated impacts from knives and are in constant contact with moisture. You’ll want woods that are both sanitary and resilient.
For projects where visual impact is the main goal—like wall art, inlays, and display shelves—distinctive color and grain take center stage.
💡 Tip: For décor, durability is less critical than aesthetics, so you can focus on unique species without worrying as much about wear resistance.
Pros
Cons
Pros
Cons
Examples: Purpleheart, Padauk, Zebrawood, Sapele, Wenge, Katalox.
💡 Pro Tip: Many woodworkers mix domestic and exotic species—using exotic woods for accents, inlays, or tabletops while relying on domestic woods for frames or structural elements. This approach balances cost, performance, and visual appeal.
Specialty hardwood pricing isn’t just about the raw material.It’s the sum of multiple factors, from how rare the species is to how much work goes into getting it ready for your shop. Understanding what drives cost helps you make informed purchasing decisions and recognize true value.
💡 Pro Tip: When evaluating cost, also weigh the yield—a cheaper board with high waste may end up costing more than a premium board you can use almost entirely.
Some hardwoods stand apart for their unmatched combination of beauty, rarity, and performance. These species aren’t just lumber, they’re signature materials that transform projects into heirloom-quality works. Because of their prestige, distinctive appearance, and often challenging supply, they command premium prices in the marketplace.
Why It Is Special: Often called the crown jewel of North American hardwoods, Black Walnut is admired for its deep chocolate-brown heartwood, subtle grain, and dependable stability. It’s a favorite for high-end furniture, cabinetry, and statement tables.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: White Oak has been the backbone of fine woodworking for centuries. Its warm golden-brown hue, pronounced grain, and legendary strength make it a go-to for flooring, cabinetry, cooperage, and timeless furniture.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: Famous for its vibrant purple hue that deepens with age, Purpleheart brings an unmatched modern aesthetic to inlays, furniture, and turning projects.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: With its espresso-brown body and nearly black streaks, Wenge is prized for bold, architectural looks. Its coarse grain adds depth to furniture, cabinetry, and flooring.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: Padauk is instantly recognizable for its vivid orange-red color that darkens to a rich mahogany shade over time. Its bold color and excellent durability make it ideal for statement furniture and accent work.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: With an unmistakable, intense crimson color, Bloodwood adds drama to fine furniture, instruments, and decorative accents. Its silky texture and natural luster make it visually stunning.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: A symbol of exclusivity, Macassar Ebony is renowned for its jet-black background streaked with golden or brown veins. It’s a staple in luxury furniture, veneers, and high-end instruments.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: Burl wood comes from abnormal tree growths that produce swirling, chaotic grain patterns with incredible depth and figure. No two pieces are alike, making them prized for veneers, turned items, and decorative art.
Why It’s Expensive:
Why It’s Special: Curly, quilted, spalted, and other figured variations showcase shimmering patterns and optical depth, giving projects a three-dimensional look. They’re highly valued for instruments, furniture, and statement pieces.
Why It’s Expensive:
💡 Pro Tip: If you love the look of high-value species but want to save money, consider using them as accents or veneers over more affordable core materials.
Finding the right lumber yard is like finding a trusted tool—it makes every project easier, smoother, and more enjoyable. Whether you’re a seasoned furniture maker or a weekend woodworker, the quality of the lumber you bring into your shop directly affects the quality of your finished piece. Not all yards are created equal, so here’s what to look for when deciding where to source your stock.
A reputable lumber yard should provide transparent grading so you know exactly what you’re buying. Grading tells you the quality of the board—whether it’s free of knots, has minimal sapwood, or carries character features like mineral streaks or wormholes. Without clear grading, you’re rolling the dice on consistency, which can derail your project or inflate your costs.
Pricing should also be straightforward. Some yards quote by the board foot, while others use linear feet or pre-cut dimensions. A good yard won’t try to confuse you—they’ll explain exactly how they calculate costs and what’s included in the price. Watch out for prices that look too good to be true; it often means the boards are under-dried, poorly milled, or a lower grade than advertised.
A fair lumber yard will not only post prices clearly but also stand by them, so you’re not surprised at checkout with hidden handling fees or “premium” charges that weren’t disclosed.
Moisture content is one of the biggest factors in woodworking success. Quality yards stock kiln-dried lumber at a stable moisture level (typically 6–8% for indoor use). This ensures the wood won’t twist, cup, or crack as soon as you bring it into your shop. Green or improperly dried lumber may be cheaper upfront, but it’s a recipe for frustration later on when your carefully built project warps out of shape.
When you’re inspecting boards at a yard, check for:
A yard that invests in quality products, practices, and supply is worth its weight in gold. It signals that they care about their product and about your success as a customer.
Perhaps the biggest difference between a mediocre lumber source and a great one is the people who run it. Knowledgeable staff can guide you through species selection, explain differences in grading, and help you find the right board for your project. If you’re a beginner, they can demystify terms like “board foot,” “rough sawn,” or “quarter sawn.” For professionals, they can help track down specialty stock like wide slabs, figured woods, or exotics such as Purpleheart, Wenge, or Padauk.
Good staff don’t just sell you the wood. They become partners in your projects. They can advise on alternatives if the species you want is out of stock, warn you about potential challenges (like tool wear when working with Bloodwood), or point you toward more budget-friendly options without sacrificing quality. That kind of expertise is invaluable, especially when you’re investing time and money into a big build.
At the end of the day, buying lumber isn’t just a transaction, it’s the foundation of your craft. A quality lumber yard with clear grading and pricing, kiln-dried stable stock, and knowledgeable staff can make the difference between a frustrating experience and a successful build.
When you find a yard that delivers on all three, stick with them. The relationship you build with your supplier is just as important as the relationship you build with your tools. After all, great projects start with great wood, and great wood starts with a great lumber yard.
If there’s one thing that can make or break a woodworking project, it’s your budget. Too often, woodworkers (both new and experienced) underestimate costs. Not just for the lumber, but for everything else that goes into creating a finished piece.
A beautiful build isn’t just about the right design and joinery; it’s also about smart planning so you don’t run out of money (or patience) halfway through.
Let’s break down the four biggest categories you’ll want to factor in: wood cost, finishes and hardware, labour, and tool expenses.
The heart of your project is the wood itself, and pricing this correctly is step one. Most hardwoods are sold by the board foot, and if you’ve ever done the math, you know how quickly that adds up. But here’s the mistake many beginners make: they calculate just enough for the project dimensions and forget about waste.
Wood is not perfect. You’ll encounter knots, cracks, checks, sapwood you don’t want, and even unexpected warps or twists. That means you’ll almost never use 100% of the lumber you buy. Professional shops typically factor in 10–20% waste for most projects, and even higher for complex builds when precision and matching matter. For large-scale projects like dining tables, you may want to build in 15–25% extra lumber, just to be safe.
Another budget tip is to be selective about the species you choose. A project in White Oak or Cherry may be more affordable than one in Black Walnut or Wenge, yet still deliver beauty and durability. Exotic woods like Purpleheart, Padauk, or Teak can easily double or triple your wood costs compared to domestic species.
If your budget is tight, consider mixing high-end accent woods with more affordable base. For example, Bloodwood strips in a Hard maple and cherry cutting board, or a Walnut tabletop top paired with a blacked out red oak base. You’ll get the visual impact without blowing the budget.
Once the woodworking is done, your project still isn’t finished until it’s… well, finished. This is an area where costs sneak up on people because finishes and hardware don’t always look expensive individually, but they add up quickly across an entire build.
Whether you prefer oil, shellac, lacquer, polyurethane, or hardwax-oil, your finishing supplies need to be factored in. A 750ml can of high-quality finish can cost anywhere from $20–$90, and the amount you need to use will vary depending on the finish and the type of wood.
Don’t forget sandpaper, tack cloths, brushes, or rags—all of which wear out and need replacing. And if you’re going for specialty products (like epoxy river tables), expect those costs to skyrocket even more.
Drawer slides, hinges, pulls, handles, brackets, and screws can easily run $50–$200 depending on the quality and style. Cheap hardware might save money upfront but often looks out of place on a well-crafted piece of furniture. For high-end builds, hardware is part of the “wow factor,” and it deserves a line in your budget just as much as the lumber does.
Tip: Always budget for finishing supplies as if you’ll use more than expected. It’s better to have a little extra polyurethane on the shelf than to stop mid-finish because you ran out.
Here’s the budgeting line item most woodworkers overlook: tool wear.
Every time you run Wenge, Purpleheart, or Bloodwood through your planer, you’re dulling knives and wearing down cutting edges. Exotic hardwoods often contain silica (which is basically natural sand in the wood fibers), which can chew through even high-quality carbide blades faster than you’d expect.
That means projects don’t just cost you in materials—they cost you in tool longevity.
Saw blades, router bits, and planer knives eventually need sharpening or replacing. For dense exotics, you may need replacements more often. Budget an extra $20–$100 for sharpening or replacement if you’re working with high-wear species.
Sometimes, a project will push you to invest in a tool you don’t already own. Building a cabinet? You might need a good dado stack. Making a large dining table? Maybe a track saw or longer clamps. Turning bowls? You’ll want specialty gouges and scrapers. These purchases aren’t part of your everyday consumables, but they can make or break whether you finish a project on time and at the quality you want.
When planning your budget, ask yourself honestly: Can my current tools handle this build from start to finish? Or am I going to need to upgrade something along the way? If you’ve been eyeing a new sander, planer, or set of chisels, this might be the project where you build that cost into the budget.
If there’s one expense that many hobbyists skip, and professionals know better than to ignore, it’s labour. Whether you’re building for a client or just for yourself, your time has value.
Start by breaking down your project into phases. They usually include milling, joinery, assembly, sanding, finishing. Estimate how long each step will realistically take. Don’t forget setup, cleanup, and “invisible” tasks like sharpening blades or running to the store for screws.
A dining table might take 30–40 hours of actual work, (30 in direct time, and 10 in planning, material acquisition, delivery). If doing a smaller job, a cutting board could still eat up 5–8 hours once you factor in milling and sanding. Remember, we may love doing this, but we also don't want to work for free (or for 5 bucks an hour... believe me, I've been there.)
Many woodworkers use a shop rate between $25–$75/hour depending on skill, region, and project type. For professional commissions, rates can run much higher. Even if you’re building for yourself, attaching an hourly value to your time helps you decide whether a project is “worth it.”
Pro Tip: When I’m quoting a build, I may break it up into the square footage for the customer. I always I will cross reference with a time estimate. It's something that I call my ‘reality check’. When customers get a square foot price it is generally easier for them to understand, and harder for them to try and negotiate downward.
Pro Tip: Always round up your estimates. If you think it’ll take 10 hours, plan for 12. Woodworking rarely moves faster than expected. By accounting for labour, you not only price your projects fairly (if you’re selling) but also avoid the trap of thinking your $1,000 table “only cost $800 in materials.” That extra $500 of labour time is real value even if it’s your own sweat equity.
Let’s say you’re building a solid Black Walnut dining table.
Now add your labour ($50 an hour as an example)
The total for 10.5 hours at $50 an hour is $525.
Once you add up your material and your time, your total for the table is $1625.
Now imagine the same project built in Hard Maple. Your lumber cost might drop to $600, saving $200 without compromising durability. The key is understanding where your money goes and planning accordingly.
Budgeting for a woodworking project isn’t about cutting corners—it’s about being realistic. Lumber prices fluctuate, finishes disappear faster than you think, and tools don’t last forever. By accounting for wood cost (and waste), finishes and hardware, labour, and tool expenses, you’ll not only protect your wallet but also ensure that your project doesn’t stall out halfway through.
The most successful woodworkers aren’t just skilled with a chisel or saw. They’re smart planners who know exactly what their project will cost before the first board hits the workbench. Build that habit, and you’ll not only save money, but you’ll also elevate the quality and consistency of every project you tackle.
Woodworking and lumber go hand-in-hand with nature. Every board in your shop started as a living tree, and the choices you make as a woodworker, builder, or hobbyist directly affect forests around the globe. That’s why sustainability and ethical sourcing are becoming more important than ever. Knowing where your wood comes from and how it was harvested doesn’t just protect the environment, it also ensures you’re working with quality lumber that was responsibly managed from stump to shelf.
The word sustainable gets used often, but what does it actually mean when it comes to lumber? A sustainable wood source is one that balances forest health, long-term supply, and ethical harvesting practices.
Here are the key factors to look for:
In short, a sustainable wood is one where the forest it came from can continue to thrive and support future generations of both people and wildlife.
If you want to be sure your lumber comes from a sustainable source, certifications are your best guide.
Widely considered the gold standard, FSC certification ensures the wood comes from forests that meet strict environmental and social criteria. This includes protecting biodiversity, indigenous rights, and long-term forest health. Look for the green FSC seal when shopping, especially for imported hardwoods.
Another respected global certification, PEFC works by endorsing national forest management standards around the world. It’s especially common in Europe and Asia.
These certifications aren’t just logos. They’re proof that the lumber in your cart was sourced responsibly. For exotic woods like Wenge, Padauk, or Purpleheart, a certification label provides peace of mind that your project isn’t contributing to illegal logging or deforestation.
While certifications guide you toward sustainable wood, it’s equally important to know what to avoid. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) maintains a list of species with trade restrictions to prevent overharvesting and extinction.
Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra): One of the most famous restricted species, prized for its beauty but heavily protected due to overexploitation.
Certain Ebony and Dalbergia Species: Many rosewoods and ebonies fall under CITES Appendices, requiring special permits for trade.
Being on the CITES appendix doesn't exactly mean it is completely blacklisted, off limits, and never to be touched, but it definitely warrants ensuring your supplier is sourcing it sustainably. They should also understand the implications of wood being on the CITES List.
As a woodworker, you don’t want to run into legal issues, or worse, contribute to the decline of a threatened species. Always ask your supplier about CITES regulations, and if in doubt, check the official Appendices list before purchasing exotic lumber. On behalf of lumber distributors who are working to prevent the decline in certain species, we thank you.
The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species is the world’s most comprehensive inventory of the global conservation status of plants and animals. Maintained by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the list categorizes species based on their risk of extinction ranging from "Least Concern" to "Extinct in the Wild".
For woodworkers and lumber buyers, the Red List is especially important because many historically popular hardwoods (and some currently sought after hardwoods) such as certain Rosewoods, Ebonies, and Mahoganies are flagged as Vulnerable, Endangered, or Critically Endangered.
Using the Red List as a reference helps ensure you aren’t unknowingly contributing to deforestation or biodiversity loss. Combined with certifications like FSC or PEFC, it’s a powerful tool for making responsible choices. In short, the IUCN Red List is more than a database. It’s a global warning system guiding sustainable practices.
There’s no denying that exotic species like Macassar Ebony, Wenge, and Bloodwood are stunning and make a statement in furniture or turning projects. But they also carry a heavier environmental footprint.
That doesn’t mean you need to avoid exotics altogether, but it does mean buying responsibly. Choose FSC or PEFC certified stock whenever possible, and consider mixing exotic accents with domestic hardwoods. For example, use local White Oak or Black Walnut as a project base and add in smaller amounts of Purpleheart or Padauk for striking contrast. This approach balances sustainability with aesthetics.
Sustainability and woodworking aren’t at odds. They’re actually partners in the same goal. Every time you choose FSC certified stock, ask about CITES regulations, or source your material responsibly, you’re helping to ensure that future generations of woodworkers have access to the same incredible materials we enjoy today.
Responsible sourcing isn’t just an environmental concern, but a mark of craftsmanship, care, and respect for the material itself.
When you build with sustainably sourced lumber, your project carries a story of responsibility and stewardship. And that’s something worth finishing with pride.
Hardwoods and specialty lumber aren’t just building materials. They’re the foundation of craftsmanship, design, and legacy.
From the timeless elegance of domestic staples like Walnut, Oak, and Maple to the bold statement of exotics like Purpleheart, Wenge, and Zebrawood, the right choice of wood can elevate an ordinary build into an extraordinary one.
As you’ve seen throughout this guide, understanding hardwood means more than memorizing species names. It’s about recognizing the relationship between durability, workability, beauty, and sustainability. Its about recognizing how those qualities align with your specific project.
Whether you’re selecting boards for a family heirloom dining table, planning out costs for a commissioned build, or experimenting with exotic accents, knowledge is your greatest tool.
Budget wisely, plan for waste, account for labour and tool wear, and source responsibly. When you approach your projects with both creativity and careful preparation, you don’t just end up with finished pieces—you create lasting stories in wood.
At the end of the day, great woodworking is about balance: balancing tradition with innovation, affordability with aesthetics, and craftsmanship with responsibility. With this guide in hand, you’re better equipped to walk into any lumberyard near you, choose confidently, and build something that will stand the test of time.
“Woodworking is half craft, half therapy. The trick is to embrace the mistakes, celebrate the wins, and never stop making sawdust.”
Q: What types of wood do you sell?
A: We carry a wide range of domestic and exotic hardwoods, including species like Black Walnut, White Oak, Cherry, Maple, Hickory, Red Oak, and Ambrosia Maple. Some of the exotics we carry include Purpleheart, Padauk, Canarywood, and Wenge. We also stock figured woods, turning blanks, and live edge slabs! For a full list of the types of wood we carry, please visit:
Dimensional Lumber
Live Edge Lumber
Q: Do you carry both domestic and exotic hardwoods?
A: Yes! From classic domestics like Walnut, Maple, and Oak to striking exotics like Purpleheart, Padauk, and Macassar Ebony, we carry both to suit every project and budget. To see all of the available options, check out these categories:
Dimensional Lumber
Live Edge Lumber
Q: What’s the difference between hardwood and softwood?
A: Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (Walnut, Oak, Maple) and are generally denser, while softwoods come from conifers (Pine, Cedar) and are lighter. Hardwoods are common in fine furniture and joinery.
Q: Do you sell softwoods as well?
A: Our specialty is hardwoods, but we occasionally stock select softwoods for specific uses. Contact us for current availability.
Q: What are the most popular species you carry?
A: Our top sellers include Black Walnut, Ambrosia maple, Hard Maple, Cherry, and exotics like Purpleheart and Padauk. We also find that online, everyone loves our dimensional hardwood because of its consistency and reliability. In-store however, live edge is a big seller because of the variety and selection we have!
Q: What’s the hardest wood you sell?
A: Species like Wenge, Bloodwood, and Macassar Ebony rank among the hardest we carry, offering exceptional density and durability. We’re always adding new wood types though, so this list could require changing soon!
Q: What wood is best for beginners?
A: We recommend domestic species like Maple, Cherry, or Walnut. They’re stable, easy to work with, and finish beautifully.
Q: Do you sell live edge slabs?
A: Yes, we stock live edge slabs in domestic and exotic species, perfect for tables, counters, and statement pieces.
Live Edge Slabs
Q: Do you sell turning blanks and bowl blanks?
A: Absolutely! We carry turning squares, spindle stock, and bowl blanks in a variety of domestic and exotic woods.
Bowl Blanks
Turning Blanks
Pen Blanks
Q: Do you sell plywood or sheet goods?
A: We focus on solid hardwoods, but we do carry select hardwood plywood and Craft Plywood depending on demand. Please reach out to inquire if you have a specific need for sheet goods
Q: Do you keep Black Walnut in stock?
A: Yes, Black Walnut is a staple species and one of our most consistently stocked items.
Q: Do you carry White Oak?
A: Yes, we stock both White Oak and Red Oak in a variety of sizes.
Q: Do you stock exotic species like Purpleheart or Padauk?
A: Yes, we keep a rotating selection of exotics like Purpleheart, Padauk, Wenge, and more.
Q: Can you source rare woods like Macassar Ebony?
A: We can often source specialty woods on request, including Macassar Ebony, pink ivory, African blackwood, and others. Contact us for lead times.
Q: Do you sell offcuts?
A: We often have offcuts available at discounted rates—great for small projects!
Offcut Boxes
Q: Do you sell reclaimed wood?
A: We primarily carry fresh hardwood, but reclaimed stock is occasionally available. Contact us for current options.
Q: Do you carry cutting board blanks for engraving?
A: Yes, we carry cutting board blanks ready for engraving and finishing.
Q: Do you carry cutting board kits?
A: Yes, we offer cutting board kits with pre-cut strips for easy assembly.
Q: Do you carry cutting board strips?
A: Yes, we stock a wide variety of cutting board strips in different species.
Q: Do you carry thin stock?
A: Yes, we carry thin hardwood stock for small projects and crafts.
Q: Do you sell offcuts?
A: Yes, offcuts are available and perfect for smaller projects.
Q: Do you sell small pieces?
A: Yes, we carry small pieces ideal for crafts, inlays, and hobby work.
Q: Do you sell bowl blanks?
A: Yes, we carry bowl blanks in multiple sizes and species.
Q: Do you carry pen blanks?
A: Yes, we stock pen blanks in both domestic and exotic species.
Q: Do you carry turning blanks?
A: Yes, we offer turning blanks for spindles, tool handles, and more.
Q: Do you carry hardwood panels?
A: Yes, we offer gluing up custom sized hardwood panels and shipping them north America wide! We also offer finishing them as well.
Please see:
Laminated hardwood panels [https://theknottylumberco.ca/collections/laminated-panels]
Finished hardwood panels [https://theknottylumberco.ca/collections/laminated-panels-finished]
Q: Do you sell wholesale material?
A: Yes, wholesale material is available for bulk buyers and repeat customers.
Q: Do you carry epoxy?
A: Yes, we carry epoxy products for river tables and resin projects.
Q: Is your lumber kiln-dried?
A: Yes, all of our lumber is kiln-dried for stability, unless otherwise noted.
Q: What’s the average moisture content of your stock?
A: The material is kiln dried to between 6–8% moisture content for indoor use lumber. After kiln drying, it will acclimate with Ontario humidity. Generally, that is around 10-11%
Q: Do you offer surfacing (S2S or S4S)?
A: Yes, we can surface lumber two or four sides upon request.
Q: Can you joint or straight-line rip boards?
A: Yes, dressing services are available upon request.
Q: Do you cut boards to custom sizes?
A: We can cut boards to length for easier handling and shipping upon request
Q: Do you plane boards to exact thicknesses?
A: Yes, thickness planing is available upon request.
Q: Do you sell rough cut lumber?
A: Yes, we stock rough cut lumber for customers who prefer to mill their own boards. We usually surface them in advance though, so please message us to request it if needed!
Q: Do you offer CNC cutting?
A: At this time, we do not provide CNC services.
Q: How is your lumber priced, by the board foot or linear foot?
A: Our lumber is generally priced by the board foot. We include factors like sorting, waste, and milling where applicable. A board foot calculation isn't the only factor when it comes to pricing, so other methods like pricing by linear foot, square foot, or price per unit are used when necessary.
Q: Do you offer bulk discounts?
A: Yes, larger orders often qualify for discounted pricing. Please message use for more information
Q: Do you have wholesale pricing?
A: Yes, wholesale pricing is available for consistent volume buyers.
Q: Do prices vary by grade?
A: Yes, higher grades (clear or figured) command premium pricing.
Q: Why is Black Walnut so expensive?
A: Walnut grows irregularly, has high demand, and clear boards are limited, making it more costly.
Q: Why are exotic woods more costly than domestic ones?
A: Importing exotics adds shipping, handling, and sustainability costs, plus many are rarer than domestic species.
Q: Do you price figured lumber differently?
A: Yes, figured and specialty grain patterns are priced higher due to rarity.
Q: Do you accept credit cards?
A: Yes, we accept all major credit cards.
Q: Can I pay via e-transfer?
A: Yes, we accept e-transfer for customers.
Q: Do you offer financing for large orders?
A: Not directly, but we can discuss payment solutions for bulk purchases.
Q: Can I order online?
A: Yes, you can place orders directly through our website.
Q: Do you take phone orders?
A: Yes, we’re happy to take orders by phone.
Q: Can I hand-select boards in person?
A: Yes, in-store customers can hand-select boards.
Q: Can I request specific widths or grain patterns?
A: Yes, we try to accommodate grain and width preferences.
Q: Do you do custom milling?
A: Yes, custom milling is available depending on the request.
Q: Can you prepare project kits (cutting board strips, etc.)?
A: Yes, we offer pre-cut packs for cutting boards, turning projects, and more.
Q: Can you cut slabs into smaller pieces for shipping?
A: Yes, slabs can be cut down for easier handling.
Q: Do you offer engraving or laser cutting?
A: Not at this time.
Q: Can I preorder a species that’s out of stock?
A: Yes, we can reserve or preorder species for you.
Q: Do you ship across Canada?
A: Yes, we ship nationwide.
Q: Do you ship to the U.S.?
A: Yes, we ship to the United States.
Q: Do you ship internationally?
A: Yes, international shipping is available on select species.
Q: What carriers do you use?
A: We use trusted carriers including UPS, FedEx, Canpar, and other freight partners.
Q: How are orders packaged?
A: Orders are carefully wrapped in either boxes, or black shrink wrap and tape. We occasionally use black poly wrapping, bubble wrap, and other shipping products prevent damage.
Q: How long does shipping take?
A: Most orders ship within 3–5 business days.
Q: How much does shipping cost?
A: Shipping is calculated by weight, dimensions, and location.
Q: Do you offer local delivery?
A: Yes, we offer local delivery in select areas.
Q: Can I pick up my order in person?
A: Yes, in-store pickup is always an option.
Q: Do you offer free shipping at a certain order value?
A: We occasionally offer free shipping promotions.
Q: What’s your return policy?
A: Please see our policies for more details!
Q: Do you accept returns on cut boards?
A: Custom-cut boards are final sale.
Q: Can I return exotic woods?
A: Yes, as long as they are uncut and unused.
Q: Do you replace boards damaged in shipping?
A: Yes, we’ll replace or refund damaged boards.
Q: Do you guarantee grain or color consistency?
A: We cannot guarantee exact grain or color, as wood is a natural product.
Q: What happens if I receive the wrong species?
A: We’ll correct the mistake promptly at no cost to you.
Q: Do you offer a satisfaction guarantee?
A: Yes, we stand behind the quality of our lumber.
Q: Can I exchange lumber for different dimensions?
A: Yes, exchanges are possible on standard stock.
Q: Do you cover shipping on returns?
A: For mistakes on our end, yes. We cover return shipping.
Q: What’s the difference between S2S and S4S?
A: S2S = surfaced two sides (planed 2 sides).
S4S = surfaced four sides (Jointed and planed).
Q: What is “board foot” and how do I calculate it?
A: One board foot = 12" × 12" × 1". Multiply thickness × width × length (in inches) ÷ 144.
Q: What does quartersawn mean?
A: Quartersawn boards are cut at an angle to the growth rings, offering stability and unique grain.
Q: How do I store lumber properly?
A: Keep boards flat, stacked with stickers, in a dry, climate-controlled space.
Q: How do I prevent wood from warping?
A: Proper storage, sealing ends, and allowing acclimation to shop conditions helps.
Q: What wood is best for outdoor use?
A: White Oak, cedar, Teak, Ipe, and Sapele are great for outdoor projects.
Q: What woods are toxic to work with?
A: Exotics like Wenge, Padauk, and Cocobolo can cause irritation. Use proper PPE.
Q: How do I finish Purpleheart without it turning brown?
A: Use a UV-inhibiting finish and limit prolonged sunlight exposure.
Q: What’s the best finish for cutting boards?
A: Food-safe oils like mineral oil or beeswax blends.
Q: Are your woods FSC certified?
A: Yes, many of our woods carry FSC certification when applicable. We also carry all documentation required for wood types that are protected to ensure they have been sustainably sourced.
Q: Do you sell reclaimed or salvaged wood?
A: We carry reclaimed and locally sourced material.
Q: Do you comply with CITES restrictions?
Yes, we adhere to all CITES regulations.
Q: Do you prioritize sustainable sourcing?
A: Yes, we prioritize responsibly harvested species
Q: What species are most sustainable?
A: Domestics like Maple, Oak, and Cherry are highly sustainable.
Q: Do you offer eco-friendly alternatives to exotic woods?
A: Yes, we often suggest domestic substitutes with similar looks or properties.
Q: What’s the best wood for cutting boards?
A: Hard Maple, Cherry, and Black Walnut are the most popular. Exotic Lumber is also included to accent different cutting boards.
Q: What’s the best wood for turning bowls?
A: Dense, stable woods like Maple, Cherry, and exotic burls.
Q: What’s the best wood for guitar building?
A: Mahogany, Maple, and exotic Rosewoods (where permitted).
Q: What’s the best wood for countertops?
A: Walnut, Maple, Oak, and durable exotics like Sapele.
Q: What’s the best wood for stair treads?
A: Oak, Maple, and Hickory are excellent choices.
Q: What’s the best wood for carving?
A: Basswood and softer domestics are ideal.
Q: Do you sell wood for epoxy river tables?
A: Yes, we stock live edge slabs perfect for epoxy projects.
Q: What’s the best wood for rustic furniture?
A: Reclaimed lumber, Oak, and live edge slabs.
Q: Can I mix species in the same project?
A: Yes, mixing species creates contrast and visual interest.
Q: What’s the difference between domestic vs. exotic wood performance?
A: Domestics are easier to source, work, and finish; exotics are denser, more colorful, and often harder on tools.
Q: What’s the Best Wood for a Dining Table?
A: Walnut, Oak, Cherry—durable, beautiful, and table-tested.
Q: Is Exotic Wood Worth the Extra Cost?
A: For statement pieces, yes. For function-only? Domestics may be better.
Q: Can You Mix Species in a Project?
A: Absolutely! Just make sure wood movement and finish compatibility align.
Q: What Is the Difference Between S2S, S4S, and Rough-Cut?
A: Rough, or Rough Cut: No surfacing has been done.
S2S: Surfaced 2 sides (faces)
S4S: Surfaced 4 sides (faces + edges)
