Whiskey and Beer Flight Boards [8/4 Wide · 2ft · 5-Pack]

on October 05, 2026

Whiskey and Beer Flight Boards[8/4 Wide · 2ft · 5-Pack]

One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 5 flight boards

Whiskey and Beer Flight Boards built from one 8/4 Wide · 2ft lumber pack (shown in black walnut) 18" × 5½" × 1¾" · 4 glasses each

Shop Black Walnut 8/4 Wide · 2ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 2' Lengths / 6-8"

How it goes together
Makes 5 boards
Skill Beginner+
Time 1 day + oil
Boards All 5 used

*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.

Five thick tasting-flight boards for beer, whiskey or wine, one from each board in the pack. Each board holds four tasting glasses in drilled recesses and has a short handle with a hang hole. Make a set for your own bar, or wrap them up for groomsmen, a brewery-loving friend or a dad who likes his whiskey.

Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers

Part Qty From S2S size
Flight board blanks 5 One per board 18" × 5½" × 1¾"
Handle (shaped) 5 Last 3" of each blank 3" long, narrows to 2½" wide
Glass recesses 20 4 per board 2¾" dia. × ⅜" deep

No joinery: each 5½" board is one flight board, 18" long.

Glass recesses: four 2¾" Forstner holes ⅜" deep on the centreline, centres 2¼", 5¾", 9¼" and 12¾" from the square end.

Handle: last 3" narrows to 2½" wide, ⅞" hang hole 1" from the end. Round the edges, oil and wax.

Finished size: Each board 18" L × 5½" W × 1¾" (wider boards make wider boards). Holds four tasting glasses with bases up to about 2⅝".

Board 1 Flight board 18" Board 2 Flight board 18" Board 3 Flight board 18" Board 4 Flight board 18" Board 5 Flight board 18" Hatched = planned offcut. Drawn for S2S boards at the narrowest width (5½" usable). Saw kerf ⅛".

Before You Start

Shopping List

  • 1 lumber pack — 8/4 Wide · 2ft (6–8" wide, S2S)
  • Card for a handle template
  • Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
  • Food-safe finish: mineral oil or board oil
  • Board wax (beeswax and mineral oil)
  • 20 tasting glasses, about 5 oz (4 per board)
  • Leather cord for hanging loops (optional)

Tools

  • Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square)
  • Drill press (recommended) with a fence and hold-down clamp
  • 2¾" Forstner bit (match your glass base) and ⅞" bit
  • Bandsaw or jigsaw
  • Spindle sander, drum sander bit or sanding block
  • Router with ¼" roundover bit (or sand by hand)
  • Random-orbit sander or sanding block
  • S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
Why S2S only? The 6–8" wide 8/4 boards come S2S: both faces planed, edges rough. Plan on losing about ¼" per edge when you straighten them.
Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · 6–8" wide 8/4 S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (5½" clean at the narrowest), planned at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.

Step-by-Step

2
S2S Lumber Pack (6–8" wide)
Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first

  1. 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance).
  2. 2 Measure your glasses. Measure the base of the tasting glasses you will use. A typical 5 oz taster has a base about 2½" across, so a 2¾" recess gives a little play. Bigger glasses need a bigger bit — check the spacing still fits before you drill.
  3. 3 Cut the blanks. Square one end of each board, then crosscut it at 18". You now have five blanks, 5½" wide. Pick the best face of each for the top.
  4. 4 Mark the recesses. Draw a centreline down the length of each blank. Mark the recess centres at 2¼", 5¾", 9¼", 12¾" from the square end. The last recess ends at 14⅛", short of the handle at 15".
  5. 5 Drill the recesses. Chuck a 2¾" Forstner bit in the drill press and set the depth stop at ⅜". Clamp a fence so every hole lands on the centreline. Run the press slow (about 300–500 rpm) and clamp the blank down — a big Forstner bit grabs.
  6. 6 Mark the handle. Make a template from card for the last 3": the board curves in at the shoulders and narrows to 2½" wide at the end, centred, with rounded corners. Trace it onto every blank so the set matches.
  7. 7 Cut the handle. Saw the outline with a bandsaw or jigsaw, staying about 1/16" outside the line. Sand to the line with a spindle sander, a drum in the drill press, or a sanding block.
  8. 8 Drill the hang hole. Mark it 1" from the handle end, centred. Drill a ⅞" hole straight through with scrap underneath so the back doesn't blow out.
  9. 9 Round and sand. Round over the outside edges with a ¼" roundover bit, or sand them soft. Sand 120 → 180 → 220, including the recess walls (wrap sandpaper around a can).
  10. 10 Finish. Wipe on mineral oil or board oil, let it soak, and wipe off the excess. Repeat the next day, then buff on board wax so drips wipe straight off.
Why a drill press? A 2¾" Forstner bit is big and grabby. A drill press holds it square, stops every recess at the same depth, and keeps your hands clear. With a hand drill, use a drill guide and clamp the board down hard.
Why one board per flight? No glue joints means nothing to fail when beer spills on it. The wide boards are already a good width for a row of glasses.
Why recesses and not holes through? A ⅜" deep recess holds the glass steady and catches drips. A through-hole would let the glass drop and leave sharp end grain on the bottom.

Make It Yours

  • Chalkboard labels: mask off a ¾" strip in front of each glass and brush on chalkboard paint so you can write the name of each pour.
  • Engraved labels: wood-burn or laser-engrave 1–4 or the drink names under each recess.
  • Mixed set: make each board from a different species for a gift set that looks great on the wall.

Safety and Care

  • Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
  • Clamp the blank to the drill-press table before drilling the recesses. Never hold it by hand with a big Forstner bit.
  • Clamp the blank to the bench when jigsawing the handle and keep both hands clear of the blade line.
  • Wear a dust mask when cutting and sanding, especially exotics (padauk, purpleheart, sapele).

Frequently Asked Questions

The 6–8" wide 8/4 pack comes S2S (faces planed, edges rough). Straighten the edges with a jointer, a table saw and a straight-line jig, a track saw, or a hand plane.

Yes, with a mineral oil or board oil finish. Walnut, maple, cherry, oak, sapele, padauk and purpleheart are all fine for serving. Skip aromatic cedar for anything that touches food. Wear a dust mask when cutting exotics like padauk, purpleheart and sapele — the dust irritates.

Measure the base and choose a Forstner bit about ⅛"–¼" larger. For bases over 3", drop to three glasses per board and space the centres 4½" apart.

Wipe spills right away and dry the board. Hand wash with warm soapy water if needed — never soak them or use the dishwasher. Re-oil when they look dry.

Planned offcuts: about 4¾" off the end of each board, plus the small waste beside each handle. Those end pieces make five matching coasters. All 5 boards go into the flight boards.

Yes. A 4ft wide pack makes ten flight boards: crosscut every board in half first, then follow this plan. Or make five 30" boards that hold six or seven glasses.

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