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Hockey Stick Wall Rack[8/4 · 4ft · 5-Pack]
One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 1 rack for 8 sticks
Shop Black Walnut 8/4 · 4ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 4' Lengths / 4-6"
How it goes together
Black Walnut
Hard Maple
Cherry
White Oak
Red Oak
Ash
Hickory
Ambrosia Maple
Sapele*
Padauk*
Purpleheart*
*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.
Get the sticks off the garage floor. This rack holds eight sticks blade-down in slots, has a shelf on top for pucks and tape, and comes with a matching peg rail for gloves, helmets and bags. Thick 8/4 hardwood takes the knocks, and everything screws into the studs.
Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers
| Part | Qty | From | S4S size | S2S size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back board | 1 | Board 1 | 44" × 4" × 1¾" | 44" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Stick rail | 1 | Board 2 | 44" × 4" × 1¾" | 44" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Puck shelf | 1 | Board 3 | 44" × 4" × 1¾" | 44" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Gear rail | 1 | Board 4 | 44" × 4" × 1¾" | 44" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Pegs | 5 | Board 5, 1¾" strip | 5" × 1¾" × 1¾" | 5" × 1¾" × 1¾" |
| Brackets | 3 | Board 5, rest of width | 5¾" × 2⅛" × 1¾" | 5¼" × 1⅝" × 1¾" |
Stick rail: board 2 laid flat, back edge glued and screwed to the face of the back board (#10 × 3" every 8"), bottoms flush. Eight 1¼" × 1½" slots, 5" on centre.
Brackets: three strips from board 5, on edge under the stick rail, back end against the wall, two #10 × 3" screws down through the rail into each. No glue (cross grain).
Shelf: board 3 flat on the back board's top edge, glued and screwed (long grain to long grain).
Gear rail: board 4 with five 1¾" square pegs, glued and screwed from behind with one #10 × 3" each.
Mounting: back board and gear rail each into three studs, two #10 × 3½" screws per stud.
Finished size: S4S: stick rack 44" W × 5¾" D × about 8" tall with brackets; gear rail 44" × 4" · S2S: 44" W × 5¼" D × about 7" tall; gear rail 44" × 3½". Pegs stand out 5".
Before You Start
Shopping List
- 1 lumber pack — 8/4 · 4ft (S4S or S2S)
- Wood glue (Titebond II or III)
- 22 × #10 × 3" flat-head wood screws
- 12 × #10 × 3½" flat-head wood screws (2 per stud)
- Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
- Finish: hardwax oil or water-based poly
Tools
- Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square)
- Saw for rips (table saw, or circular/track saw with a guide)
- Jigsaw or handsaw, ¾" chisel
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, pilot bits
- 2–4 bar clamps, 12" or longer
- Stud finder, 48" level
- Random-orbit sander or sanding block
- S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
S4S or S2S? S4S boards arrive flat and square on all four sides — cut and build. S2S boards have rough edges you straighten first. No jointer? Choose S4S.
Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · S4S boards 1¾" × 4", ¼" to square an end · S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (3½" clean); we plan S2S at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.
Step-by-Step
S4S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 4 sides — no jointing
- 1 Cut the parts. Square one end of boards 1–4 and crosscut each at 44": back board, stick rail, shelf and gear rail. Rip a 1¾" strip off board 5 for the pegs (square stock) and crosscut five 5" pegs. Crosscut three 5¾" brackets from the other strip, 2⅛" wide. Use a push stick.
- 2 Cut the stick slots. Lay the stick rail flat. On its front edge, mark 8 slot centres: the first 4½" from the left end, then every 5". Each slot is 1¼" wide × 1½" deep. Saw both sides with a jigsaw or handsaw and chop out the waste with a chisel. Round the slot corners so they don't chew the sticks.
- 3 Shape the brackets. Stand a bracket on edge, 2⅛" tall. On the front end, mark ½" down from the top. On the bottom edge, mark 1⅝" back from the front end. Saw a 45° line between the marks to take off the lower front corner.
- 4 Join the stick rail. Lay the back board face down. Stand the stick rail's back edge against its face, bottom edges flush, slots facing out. Glue (both grains run the same way) and drive pre-drilled #10 × 3" screws through the back board into the rail every 8".
- 5 Add the brackets. Set a bracket under the rail at each end and in the middle, between slots, with its back end flush with the back of the back board. Pre-drill and drive two #10 × 3" screws down through the rail into each bracket. No glue — the grain crosses.
- 6 Add the shelf. Lay the shelf flat on the back board's top edge, back edges flush. Glue and drive pre-drilled #10 × 3" screws down into the edge every 10", countersunk.
- 7 Fit the pegs. Chamfer the outer end of each peg. Mark five peg centres on the gear rail, 4⅜" from each end and 8 13/16" apart, centred on the height. Glue each peg on its mark and drive one pre-drilled #10 × 3" screw from the back of the rail into it. The peg is end grain, so the screw carries it.
- 8 Sand and finish. Ease every edge and sand 120 → 180 → 220. Two or three coats of hardwax oil or water-based poly stand up to wet gear in a garage.
- 9 Hang it. Set the stick rail about 40" off the floor for adult sticks (about 30" for kids'). Pre-drill and drive two #10 × 3½" screws through the back board, in the 2¼" strip between the rail and the shelf, into each of three studs. Hang the gear rail lower and to one side so the pegs clear the sticks, with two screws per stud between the pegs. Load: sticks and tape on the rack, about 25 lb on the gear rail.
S2S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first
- 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish 1¾" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
- 2 Cut the parts. Square one end of boards 1–4 and crosscut each at 44": back board, stick rail, shelf and gear rail. Rip a 1¾" strip off board 5 for the pegs (square stock) and crosscut five 5" pegs. Crosscut three 5¼" brackets from the other strip, 1⅝" wide. Use a push stick.
- 3 Cut the stick slots. Lay the stick rail flat. On its front edge, mark 8 slot centres: the first 4½" from the left end, then every 5". Each slot is 1¼" wide × 1½" deep. Saw both sides with a jigsaw or handsaw and chop out the waste with a chisel. Round the slot corners so they don't chew the sticks.
- 4 Shape the brackets. Stand a bracket on edge, 1⅝" tall. On the front end, mark ½" down from the top. On the bottom edge, mark 1⅛" back from the front end. Saw a 45° line between the marks to take off the lower front corner.
- 5 Join the stick rail. Lay the back board face down. Stand the stick rail's back edge against its face, bottom edges flush, slots facing out. Glue (both grains run the same way) and drive pre-drilled #10 × 3" screws through the back board into the rail every 8".
- 6 Add the brackets. Set a bracket under the rail at each end and in the middle, between slots, with its back end flush with the back of the back board. Pre-drill and drive two #10 × 3" screws down through the rail into each bracket. No glue — the grain crosses.
- 7 Add the shelf. Lay the shelf flat on the back board's top edge, back edges flush. Glue and drive pre-drilled #10 × 3" screws down into the edge every 10", countersunk.
- 8 Fit the pegs. Chamfer the outer end of each peg. Mark five peg centres on the gear rail, 4⅜" from each end and 8 13/16" apart, centred on the height. Glue each peg on its mark and drive one pre-drilled #10 × 3" screw from the back of the rail into it. The peg is end grain, so the screw carries it.
- 9 Sand and finish. Ease every edge and sand 120 → 180 → 220. Two or three coats of hardwax oil or water-based poly stand up to wet gear in a garage.
- 10 Hang it. Set the stick rail about 40" off the floor for adult sticks (about 30" for kids'). Pre-drill and drive two #10 × 3½" screws through the back board, in the 1¾" strip between the rail and the shelf, into each of three studs. Hang the gear rail lower and to one side so the pegs clear the sticks, with two screws per stud between the pegs. Load: sticks and tape on the rack, about 25 lb on the gear rail.
Why blade-down? The blade carries the weight on the floor, so the rack only keeps the stick upright. Wet blades also drip on the floor, not on the rack.
Why are the slots only 1½" deep? The shelf stands out 4" from the wall. Shallow slots keep each stick just in front of the shelf edge, so the knob end never hits it. The stick leans back into the slot and stays put.
Why screws on the pegs? A peg meets the rail with its end grain, and glue alone doesn't hold end grain. The screw from behind does the work; the glue just stops it turning.
Why pre-drill? Maple, oak and hickory split if you drive a screw without a pilot hole. Pre-drill every screw and countersink so the heads sit flush.
Make It Yours
- Name plates: burn or paint each player's number above their slot.
- Kid height: hang a second gear rail at 30" so the kids hang their own gear.
- Ball hockey: add a strip along the shelf's front edge to keep balls from rolling off.
Safety and Care
- Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
- Mount into wall studs (or rated anchors sized for the load). Check for wires and pipes before drilling.
- Gear rail: about 25 lb in total — helmets, gloves and a bag. Don't hang hockey bags full of gear from a single peg.
- Cut the stick slots with the rail clamped to the bench.
- Pre-drill every screw — hardwoods split without a pilot hole.
Frequently Asked Questions
Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.
The shaft fits the 1¼" slot. A goalie paddle is wide, so leave the end slots for goalie sticks so the paddle sits clear of the next stick.
Yes. Use ¼" concrete screws, two per spot, in the same places as the stud screws.
Lower down and off to one side of the sticks — or on the next wall — so the pegs never poke into the stick zone. About 48" off the floor suits adults.
Planned offcuts only: about 3" off the end of boards 1–4, and the ends of both strips on board 5 (about 21" of peg stock and 29" of bracket strip) — enough for spare pegs. All 5 boards go into the build.
A 2ft pack makes a 20" rack with four slots, a matching shelf and a 3-peg gear rail. 20" spans one 16" stud bay, so it still reaches two studs.
