End-Grain Cutting Board [8/4 · 2ft · 5-Pack]

on October 02, 2026

End-Grain Cutting Board[8/4 · 2ft · 5-Pack]

One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 1 large end-grain board

End-Grain Cutting Board built from one 8/4 · 2ft lumber pack (shown in black walnut)

≈19" × 19" × 1½" (S4S)

Build This Project

Pack 8/4 · 2ft · 5-Pack Uses 1 pack, all 5 boards Shown in Black WalnutON SALE Also in Hard Maple, Cherry, White Oak, Ambrosia Maple, Sapele, Padauk, Purpleheart Shipping Free shipping

Shop This Pack or choose another species →select 2' Lengths / 4-6"

How it goes together

Makes 1 big board

Skill Intermediate

Time Weekend + glue

Boards All 5 used

Black Walnut Hard Maple Cherry White Oak Ambrosia Maple Sapele* Padauk* Purpleheart*

*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers. Food-safe species shown.

The classic checkerboard butcher's board, made from one 8/4 pack. Rip the boards into strips, glue two panels, slice them like bread, turn the slices on end and glue them back together. End grain is kind to knife edges and hides cut marks. The result is a thick, heavy board about 19" square.

Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers

Part	Qty	From	S4S size	S2S size
Strips	10	All 5 boards, ripped in half	23¼" × 1 15/16" × 1¾"	23" × 1 11/16" × 1¾"
Panels (5 strips each)	2	Glued from the strips	23¼" × 9 11/16" × 1¾"	23" × 8 7/16" × 1¾"
End-grain slices	22	11 per panel	9 11/16" × 1¾" × 1¾"	8 7/16" × 1¾" × 1¾"

Panels: 5 strips edge-glued, long grain to long grain — two panels.

Slices: 11 × 1¾" crosscuts per panel on a sled with a stop block, turned end grain up, every other one flipped.

Board: two columns of 11 slices; glue each column, then join the columns. Flatten with a router sled or belt sander, never a planer.

Finished size: S4S about 19⅜" × 19¼" × 1½" · S2S about 16⅞" × 19¼" × 1½". Trim the edges square and lose about ¼" each way.

Before You Start

Shopping List

1 lumber pack — 8/4 · 2ft (S4S or S2S)
Wood glue (Titebond III — water resistant)
Sandpaper 80 / 120 / 180 / 220
Food-safe finish: mineral oil or board oil
Board wax (beeswax and mineral oil)
4 rubber feet + #8 × ¾" screws (optional)

Tools

Saw for rips (table saw, or circular/track saw with a guide)
Crosscut sled or sliding mitre saw, with a stop block
6–8 bar clamps, 24" or longer
Cauls (straight scrap strips) and packing tape
Router sled, or a belt sander
Random-orbit sander or sanding block
Router with roundover or chamfer bit
S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane

S4S or S2S? S4S boards arrive flat and square on all four sides — cut and build. S2S boards have rough edges you straighten first. No jointer? Choose S4S.

Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · S4S boards 1¾" × 4", ¼" to square an end · S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (3½" clean); we plan S2S at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.

Step-by-Step

✓

S4S Lumber Pack

Surfaced 4 sides — no jointing

1 Plan the pattern. Lay the five boards side by side and pick an order of light and dark tones. Alternate them so the checker shows up. Mark the top of each board with chalk.
2 Rip every board in half. Set the fence at 1 15/16" and rip each board down its length. You now have 10 strips, 1 15/16" × 1¾" × 23¼". Keep them in your chosen order.
3 Glue two panels. Glue the strips into two panels of five, sawn edge to edge, so each panel is 9 11/16" wide × 1¾" thick. All long grain to long grain. Alternate clamps over and under, wipe squeeze-out once it turns rubbery, and leave overnight.
4 Flatten the panels. Scrape off dried glue, then plane or sand both faces flat. This is long grain, so a planer is fine at this stage. Both panels should end up the same thickness.
5 Cut 22 slices. Square one end of each panel, then clamp a stop block at 1¾" on a crosscut sled or a sliding mitre saw. Cut 11 slices from each panel. Never use the table saw rip fence alone as a stop — the slice can bind and kick back.
6 Arrange the board. Turn every slice 90° so the end grain faces up. Lay them out in two columns of 11. Flip every other slice end for end so the tones stagger into a checker pattern.
7 Glue in two stages. First glue each column of 11 slices face to face, with cauls to keep it flat. When dry, glue the two columns together. Light, even clamp pressure — end-grain slices slide around under heavy pressure.
8 Flatten the board. Use a router sled or a belt sander to bring the board flat and down to about 1½". Do NOT run an end-grain board through a planer — it can blow out the trailing edge or throw the board.
9 Trim and shape. Trim the edges square with a crosscut sled or a track saw. Round over or chamfer all edges. Add finger grips on the ends if you like.
10 Sand and oil. Sand 80 → 120 → 180 → 220. Wipe with a damp cloth, let it dry, and sand again at 220. Flood with board oil, let it soak overnight, repeat until it stops soaking in, then buff on board wax.

2

S2S Lumber Pack

Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first

1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish 1¾" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
2 Plan the pattern. Lay the five boards side by side and pick an order of light and dark tones. Alternate them so the checker shows up. Mark the top of each board with chalk.
3 Rip every board in half. Set the fence at 1 11/16" and rip each board down its length. You now have 10 strips, 1 11/16" × 1¾" × 23". Keep them in your chosen order.
4 Glue two panels. Glue the strips into two panels of five, sawn edge to edge, so each panel is 8 7/16" wide × 1¾" thick. All long grain to long grain. Alternate clamps over and under, wipe squeeze-out once it turns rubbery, and leave overnight.
5 Flatten the panels. Scrape off dried glue, then plane or sand both faces flat. This is long grain, so a planer is fine at this stage. Both panels should end up the same thickness.
6 Cut 22 slices. Square one end of each panel, then clamp a stop block at 1¾" on a crosscut sled or a sliding mitre saw. Cut 11 slices from each panel. Never use the table saw rip fence alone as a stop — the slice can bind and kick back.
7 Arrange the board. Turn every slice 90° so the end grain faces up. Lay them out in two columns of 11. Flip every other slice end for end so the tones stagger into a checker pattern.
8 Glue in two stages. First glue each column of 11 slices face to face, with cauls to keep it flat. When dry, glue the two columns together. Light, even clamp pressure — end-grain slices slide around under heavy pressure.
9 Flatten the board. Use a router sled or a belt sander to bring the board flat and down to about 1½". Do NOT run an end-grain board through a planer — it can blow out the trailing edge or throw the board.
10 Trim and shape. Trim the edges square with a crosscut sled or a track saw. Round over or chamfer all edges. Add finger grips on the ends if you like.
11 Sand and oil. Sand 80 → 120 → 180 → 220. Wipe with a damp cloth, let it dry, and sand again at 220. Flood with board oil, let it soak overnight, repeat until it stops soaking in, then buff on board wax.

Why end grain? On end grain, a knife slips between the wood fibres instead of cutting across them. Edges stay sharp longer and cut marks close up.

Why no planer on the finished board? Planer knives hit end grain like a chisel on a fence post. The trailing edge chips out and the board can be thrown. A router sled or belt sander is safer and just as flat.

Does wood movement matter here? Yes. A thick end-grain board swells and shrinks with the seasons. Keep it oiled, never soak it, and dry it standing on edge so both faces move together.

Make It Yours

Two species: use strips from a walnut pack and a maple pack for a bold black-and-white checker.
Feet: add four rubber feet so the board sits off a wet counter.
Juice groove: skip it — end grain soaks up juice. Use a drip tray under the board instead, or rout finger grips on the ends.

Safety and Care

Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
Cut the slices with a crosscut sled or sliding mitre saw and a stop block. Keep hands well clear of the blade on every slice.
Flatten end grain with a router sled or belt sander. Never feed an end-grain board through a thickness planer.
Wear a dust mask when cutting and sanding, especially exotics (padauk, purpleheart, sapele).

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a jointer?

Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.

Which woods are food safe?

Walnut, maple, cherry, oak, sapele, padauk and purpleheart are all fine for cutting boards. Skip aromatic cedar for anything that touches food. Wear a dust mask when cutting exotics like padauk, purpleheart and sapele — the dust irritates.

How do I look after it?

Hand wash, dry it on edge, and never put it in the dishwasher or leave it soaking. Oil it once a month, or whenever it looks dry.

Why did my board crack?

Usually from soaking or drying it flat on one face. Keep it oiled and dry it on edge. Small checks can be filled with glue and sanding dust.

How much wood is left over?

Planned offcuts only: the end trims and about 2½" left on each panel after the slices. Cut those into coasters. All 5 boards go into the board.

Can I use the other pack length?

Yes. A 4ft pack makes two boards: rip the boards in half, cut each strip in half, glue four panels and follow this plan twice.