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Wall Bike Rack with Shelf[8/4 · 4ft · 5-Pack]
One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 2 bike racks
Shop Black Walnut 8/4 · 4ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 4' Lengths / 4-6"
How it goes together
Black Walnut
Hard Maple
Cherry
White Oak
Red Oak
Ash
Hickory
Ambrosia Maple
Sapele*
Padauk*
Purpleheart*
*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.
Get the bikes off the floor. Each rack is a thick back plate screwed into two studs, two notched arms that hold the bike by its top tube, and a glued-up shelf on top for a helmet, gloves and lights. One 4ft pack makes two racks, with a spare rail for helmets and locks.
Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers
| Part | Qty | From | S4S size | S2S size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shelf pieces | 4 | Boards 1–2, two each | 20" × 4" × 1¾" | 20" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Back plates | 2 | Board 3 | 20" × 4" × 1¾" | 20" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Support arms | 4 | Board 4 (three), board 5 (one) | 14" × 4" × 1¾" | 14" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Helmet rail (optional) | 1 | Board 5 | 20" × 4" × 1¾" | 20" × 3½" × 1¾" |
Shelf: two 20" pieces edge-glued, long grain to long grain.
Arms: 14" on edge, 4" in from each end of the back plate, 2 × #10 × 3½" screws each from behind. No glue (end grain). Notch 1¾" wide × 2" deep, 10" from the wall plate, lined with felt.
Shelf to rack: glued to the back plate's top edge (long grain), screwed down with #10 × 3" — 3 into the plate, 2 into each arm.
Wall: 4 × #14 × 4" screws into two studs 16" apart. One bike up to 35 lb per rack.
Finished size: S4S 20" W × 15¾" D × 5¾" H · S2S 20" W × 15¾" D × 5¼" H. Shelf 8" deep (S4S) or 7" (S2S).
Before You Start
Shopping List
- 1 lumber pack — 8/4 · 4ft (S4S or S2S)
- Wood glue (Titebond II or III)
- 8 × #10 × 3½" flat-head wood screws (arms)
- 14 × #10 × 3" flat-head wood screws (shelves)
- 8 × #14 × 4" wood screws, or 4" structural screws (wall)
- Adhesive felt for the notches
- 3 screw-in hooks (optional helmet rail)
- Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
- Finish: wipe-on oil, hardwax oil or water-based poly
Tools
- Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square)
- Jigsaw or bandsaw
- Sharp chisel
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, pilot bits
- 2–4 bar clamps, 12" or longer
- Stud finder and level
- Random-orbit sander or sanding block
- S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
S4S or S2S? S4S boards arrive flat and square on all four sides — cut and build. S2S boards have rough edges you straighten first. No jointer? Choose S4S.
Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · S4S boards 1¾" × 4", ¼" to square an end · S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (3½" clean); we plan S2S at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.
Step-by-Step
S4S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 4 sides — no jointing
- 1 Sort the boards. Boards 1–2 make the two shelves, board 3 the back plates, boards 4–5 the four arms. The 20" piece left on board 5 is a spare rail for helmets and locks.
- 2 Cut the parts. Square one end of each board and use a stop block. Cut two 20" pieces from each of boards 1–3, three 14" arms from board 4, and one 14" arm plus a 20" rail from board 5.
- 3 Glue up the shelves. Edge-glue the board 1 pieces into one shelf and the board 2 pieces into the other, each 20" × 8". Long grain to long grain. Clamp, wipe squeeze-out once rubbery, and leave overnight.
- 4 Notch the arms. On the top edge of each arm, mark a notch 10" from the back end, 1¾" wide and 2" deep. Saw down both sides with a jigsaw or bandsaw, knock out the waste and pare the bottom flat. Round the front top corner of each arm.
- 5 Screw on the arms. On the back plate, mark the arms 4" in from each end. Drill two clearance holes through the plate at each mark, then pilot into the arm ends. Drive #10 × 3½" screws from behind, arms square to the plate and flush at the bottom. No glue — this is end grain.
- 6 Drill the wall holes. Drill two clearance holes 2" in from each end of the back plate, 1" from the top edge and 1" from the bottom edge. These line up with two studs 16" apart when the rack is centred on a stud bay. Countersink them.
- 7 Sand and finish. Flatten the shelf seams, ease every edge, and sand 120 → 180 → 220. Wipe on oil or hardwax oil. Glue felt into each notch so it can't scratch the frame.
- 8 Fit the shelf. Glue the top edge of the back plate only. Set the shelf on top, flush at the back and ends. Pre-drill and drive #10 × 3" screws down through the shelf: three into the back plate and two into each arm.
- 9 Hang it. Hold your bike to the wall to pick a height with the wheels clear of the floor. Level the rack, pre-drill into both studs and drive four #14 × 4" screws (or 4" structural screws). Each rack holds one bike up to 35 lb plus a helmet on the shelf.
S2S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first
- 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish 1¾" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
- 2 Sort the boards. Boards 1–2 make the two shelves, board 3 the back plates, boards 4–5 the four arms. The 20" piece left on board 5 is a spare rail for helmets and locks.
- 3 Cut the parts. Square one end of each board and use a stop block. Cut two 20" pieces from each of boards 1–3, three 14" arms from board 4, and one 14" arm plus a 20" rail from board 5.
- 4 Glue up the shelves. Edge-glue the board 1 pieces into one shelf and the board 2 pieces into the other, each 20" × 7". Long grain to long grain. Clamp, wipe squeeze-out once rubbery, and leave overnight.
- 5 Notch the arms. On the top edge of each arm, mark a notch 10" from the back end, 1¾" wide and 2" deep. Saw down both sides with a jigsaw or bandsaw, knock out the waste and pare the bottom flat. Round the front top corner of each arm.
- 6 Screw on the arms. On the back plate, mark the arms 4" in from each end. Drill two clearance holes through the plate at each mark, then pilot into the arm ends. Drive #10 × 3½" screws from behind, arms square to the plate and flush at the bottom. No glue — this is end grain.
- 7 Drill the wall holes. Drill two clearance holes 2" in from each end of the back plate, 1" from the top edge and 1" from the bottom edge. These line up with two studs 16" apart when the rack is centred on a stud bay. Countersink them.
- 8 Sand and finish. Flatten the shelf seams, ease every edge, and sand 120 → 180 → 220. Wipe on oil or hardwax oil. Glue felt into each notch so it can't scratch the frame.
- 9 Fit the shelf. Glue the top edge of the back plate only. Set the shelf on top, flush at the back and ends. Pre-drill and drive #10 × 3" screws down through the shelf: three into the back plate and two into each arm.
- 10 Hang it. Hold your bike to the wall to pick a height with the wheels clear of the floor. Level the rack, pre-drill into both studs and drive four #14 × 4" screws (or 4" structural screws). Each rack holds one bike up to 35 lb plus a helmet on the shelf.
Why hang by the top tube? It is the strongest, simplest way to store a bike on a wall. No hooks in the wheels and no lifting the bike over your head. The notches keep it from sliding off.
Why screws and no glue on the arms? The arm ends are end grain, and glue will not hold end grain. The long screws from behind do the work, and the shelf screwed down on top ties the arms and back plate into one stiff box.
Why 20" long? A 20" back plate centred on a stud bay reaches two studs at 16" centres, with the screws 2" in from each end. Two studs carry the bike; drywall anchors would pull out.
Why pre-drill? Maple, oak and hickory split if you drive a screw without a pilot hole. Pre-drill every screw and countersink so the heads sit flush.
Make It Yours
- Helmet rail: mount the spare 20" rail under one rack, into the same studs, with three screw-in hooks for helmets and locks.
- Wider tubes: for an oversized or sloping top tube, widen the notch to 2¼" and line it with thicker felt.
- Label it: burn or paint each rider's name on the shelf front edge.
Safety and Care
- Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
- Mount into wall studs (or rated anchors sized for the load). Check for wires and pipes before drilling.
- Load each rack with one bike up to 35 lb and a helmet on the shelf. Never hang on it or use it as a step.
- Pre-drill every screw — hardwoods split without a pilot hole.
Frequently Asked Questions
Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.
Most adult and kids' bikes with a straight top tube up to 1¾" fit. Turn the handlebars parallel to the wall. For a step-through frame, hang it on the seat tube under the saddle, or use a top-tube adapter bar.
One bike up to 35 lb, plus a helmet and gloves on the shelf, when the rack is screwed into two studs. Heavy e-bikes need a floor stand instead.
Screw a 4/4 backer board across two studs first, then screw the rack to the backer. Never hang a bike rack on drywall anchors alone.
Planned offcuts only: about 7" off board 3, 5" off board 4 and 13" off board 5 (after the helmet rail). All 5 boards go into the racks and rail.
A 2ft 8/4 pack makes one rack: boards 1–2 give the two 20" shelf pieces, board 3 the back plate, and boards 4–5 one arm each.
