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Pour-Over Coffee Stand[8/4 Wide · 2ft · 5-Pack]
One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 2 pour-over stands
Shop Black Walnut 8/4 Wide · 2ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 2' Lengths / 6-8"
How it goes together
Black Walnut
Hard Maple
Cherry
White Oak
Red Oak
Ash
Hickory
Ambrosia Maple
Sapele*
Padauk*
Purpleheart*
*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.
A solid hardwood stand that holds your pour-over cone right over the mug, so both hands are free for the kettle. Each stand is a thick two-board base, an upright at the back and an arm with a hole sized to your dripper. A loose cup riser lifts a short cup up under the cone. One pack makes two: one for you, one for the coffee lover you know.
Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers
| Part | Qty | From | S2S size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base pieces | 4 | Boards 1–2, two each | 10" × 5½" × 1¾" |
| Uprights | 2 | Boards 3–4 | 14" × 5½" × 1¾" |
| Arms | 2 | Boards 3–4 | 8" × 5½" × 1¾" |
| Cup risers | 2 | Board 5 | 10" × 5½" × 1¾" |
Base: two 10" × 5½" pieces edge-glued → 10" × 11" × 1¾" (about 10¾" deep after jointing).
Upright to base: end grain on the base, so two ⅜" dowels glued in their holes plus two #10 × 3" screws up from below, counterbored. No glue on the end grain.
Arm to upright: the arm's end grain meets the upright face 6½" above the base. Two ⅜" dowels plus one #10 × 3" screw from the back, counterbored.
Dripper hole: centred 4¾" out from the upright, sized to your cone (usually 3"–3½").
Finished size: Each stand 10" W × 11" D (about 10¾" after jointing) × 15¾" H. 6½" clear under the arm — 4¾" with the cup riser in place.
Before You Start
Shopping List
- 1 lumber pack — 8/4 Wide · 2ft (6–8" wide, S2S)
- Wood glue (Titebond II or III)
- 8 × ⅜" × 2" fluted dowels
- 6 × #10 × 3" flat-head wood screws
- Felt pads
- Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
- Finish: hardwax oil (water resistant, easy to touch up)
Tools
- Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square) — with a stop block
- Hole saw or Forstner bit sized to your dripper (3"–3½" typical)
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, pilot bits, ⅜" brad-point and counterbore bits
- ⅜" dowel centres
- 2–4 bar clamps, 12" or longer
- Router with a roundover bit (optional)
- Random-orbit sander or sanding block
- S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
Why S2S only? The 6–8" wide 8/4 boards come S2S: both faces planed, edges rough. Plan on losing about ¼" per edge when you straighten them.
Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · 6–8" wide 8/4 S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (5½" clean at the narrowest), planned at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.
Step-by-Step
S2S Lumber Pack (6–8" wide)
Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first
- 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance).
- 2 Cut the parts. Square one end of each board and clamp a stop block for matching lengths. Boards 1 and 2: two 10" base pieces each. Boards 3 and 4: a 14" upright and an 8" arm each. Board 5: two 10" cup risers.
- 3 Glue up the bases. Joint the mating edges and edge-glue the base pieces in pairs: two panels 10" wide × 11" deep. Long grain to long grain, so glue holds on its own. Clamp, scrape the squeeze-out once it turns rubbery, and leave overnight. Flatten the seam.
- 4 Bore the dripper hole. Measure your dripper where it should sit in the arm, just below its rim. Most size 02 cones need a 3" to 3½" hole; don't go over 4" or the arm gets thin at the sides. Mark the centre across the arm's 5½" width, 4¾" from the end that will meet the upright. Bore halfway with a hole saw or Forstner bit, flip, and finish from the other face so neither side tears out. Test the fit.
- 5 Drill the arm joint. Mark a line 6½" up from the bottom end of each upright, on the front face. Drill two ⅜" holes 1¼" deep in the arm's square end, 1¼" in from each edge and centred in its 1¾" thickness. Use dowel centres to transfer them to the upright, just above the line, and drill those 1" deep. Between the dowels, drill a ⅜" counterbore ½" deep and a clearance hole through the upright from the back, then a pilot into the arm's end.
- 6 Drill the base joint. Stand each upright on its base, back edges flush and centred side to side (2¼" in from each end). Drill two ⅜" holes in the bottom end of the upright, 1" in from each edge, and matching holes 1" deep in the base. Between them, drill two counterbored clearance holes up through the base, about 2" apart, and pilot into the upright.
- 7 Sand. Sand everything 120 → 180 → 220. Round the top of each upright, the free end of each arm and all the edges of the cup risers. Break the edges of the dripper hole so the cone drops in easily.
- 8 Assemble. Glue goes in the dowel holes only. The upright and the arm both meet with end grain, and glue won't hold end grain. Tap the dowels into the upright, set it on the base and drive two #10 × 3" screws up from below. Tap dowels into the arm, press it to the upright, check it's square, and drive one #10 × 3" screw from the back. Wipe off squeeze-out.
- 9 Finish. Wipe on 2–3 coats of hardwax oil, inside the hole too, and let it cure fully. Hardwax oil shrugs off drips and hot water and is easy to touch up.
- 10 Brew. Stick felt pads under the base, covering the screw holes. Set the dripper in the arm and a mug or carafe underneath. For a short cup, set a cup riser under it to lift it closer to the dripper.
Why dowels and screws, not glue? The upright stands on its end grain and the arm meets the upright with its end grain. Glue soaks into end grain and lets go. The dowels are long grain glued into holes, so they stop racking, and the screws pull the joints tight.
Why such a thick base? A full kettle pour puts weight on the arm out in front. A 1¾" hardwood base is heavy enough that the stand never tips toward you, even with a full carafe on it.
Why a loose riser? A tall travel mug needs all the room under the arm. A small cup needs to be close to the cone or the coffee splashes. The riser lifts off, so one stand suits both.
Why pre-drill? Maple, oak and hickory split if you drive a screw without a pilot hole. Pre-drill every screw and countersink so the heads sit flush.
Make It Yours
- Scale ready: leave the riser off and set a coffee scale on the base. Most scales and a mug fit easily in the 6½" gap.
- Filter hook: screw a small brass hook into the side of the upright for the scoop or a stack of filters.
- Two-tone: walnut bases and uprights with maple arms and risers.
Safety and Care
- Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
- Clamp the arm to the bench or drill-press table when you bore the dripper hole. A hole saw grabs hard; never hold the part by hand.
- Pre-drill every screw — hardwoods split without a pilot hole.
- Hot water and glass carafes: keep the stand on a flat, dry counter and pour slowly.
Frequently Asked Questions
The 6–8" wide 8/4 pack comes S2S (faces planed, edges rough). Straighten the edges with a jointer, a table saw and a straight-line jig, a track saw, or a hand plane.
Yes, if you size the hole to it. Measure the cone just below its rim and bore a hole that lets it drop in and rest on the rim. Most size 02 cones need 3" to 3½". Flat-bottom drippers and small 01 cones need less.
Most do. There is 6½" clear under the arm. Measure your carafe or tall mug first. If it is taller, mark the arm line higher on the upright before you drill.
Not with hardwax oil. Wipe up spills and let it dry. Re-oil the arm and base once or twice a year, or when the wood looks dry.
Planned offcuts only: about 3" off boards 1, 2 and 5, about 1" off boards 3 and 4, and the round plug from each dripper hole (a coaster). All 5 boards go into the stands.
Yes. A 4ft wide pack makes four stands: crosscut every board in half first, then follow this plan twice.
