Edge-Grain Butcher Block [8/4 Wide · 2ft · 5-Pack]

on October 02, 2026

Edge-Grain Butcher Block[8/4 Wide · 2ft · 5-Pack]

One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 2 butcher-block boards

Edge-Grain Butcher Block built from one 8/4 Wide · 2ft lumber pack (shown in black walnut)

22" × 15¾" and 22" × 10½" · 1½" thick

Build This Project

Pack 8/4 Wide · 2ft · 5-Pack (6–8" wide) Uses 1 pack, all 5 boards Shown in Black WalnutON SALE Also in Hard Maple, Cherry, White Oak, Ambrosia Maple, Sapele, Padauk, Purpleheart Shipping Free shipping

Shop This Pack or choose another species →select 2' Lengths / 6-8"

How it goes together

Makes 2 boards

Skill Intermediate

Time Weekend + glue

Boards All 5 used

Black Walnut Hard Maple Cherry White Oak Ambrosia Maple Sapele* Padauk* Purpleheart*

*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers. Food-safe species shown.

Two thick edge-grain cutting boards from one pack of 6–8" wide 8/4 lumber. Each wide board rips into three square strips. Turn the strips on edge so the smooth planed faces glue together, and you get dead-flat, rock-solid glue joints without a jointer. One big board for carving and a smaller one for everyday chopping.

Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers

Part	Qty	From	S2S size
Strips	15	All 5 boards, 3 per board	23" × 1¾" × 1¾"
Board A (9 strips)	1	Strips glued face to face	22" × 15¾" × 1½" finished
Board B (6 strips)	1	Strips glued face to face	22" × 10½" × 1½" finished

Strips: each 5½" board ripped into three 1¾" strips, turned 90° so the planed faces glue together.

Boards: Board A = 9 strips, Board B = 6 strips, all long grain to long grain.

Final: flatten to about 1½", trim to 22", round the edges, board oil and wax.

Finished size: Board A 22" × 15¾" × about 1½" · Board B 22" × 10½" × about 1½".

Before You Start

Shopping List

1 lumber pack — 8/4 Wide · 2ft (6–8" wide, S2S)
Wood glue (Titebond III — water resistant)
Sandpaper 80 / 120 / 180 / 220
Food-safe finish: mineral oil or board oil
Board wax (beeswax and mineral oil)
Rubber feet (optional)

Tools

Table saw for ripping, with a push stick
Jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane (to straighten the rough edges)
6–8 bar clamps, 18" or longer
Cauls (straight scrap strips) and packing tape
Benchtop planer, router sled or belt sander
Track saw, circular saw + straightedge, or crosscut sled
Router with roundover bit; ½" core-box bit for a juice groove (optional)
Random-orbit sander or sanding block

Why S2S only? The 6–8" wide 8/4 boards come S2S: both faces planed, edges rough. Plan on losing about ¼" per edge when you straighten them.

Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · 6–8" wide 8/4 S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (5½" clean at the narrowest), planned at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.

Step-by-Step

2

S2S Lumber Pack (6–8" wide)

Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first

1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance).
2 Rip three strips per board. Set the fence at 1¾" and rip each board into three strips — 5½" total with two saw cuts. If a board is wider than 5½", the extra comes off as a thin offcut. You now have 15 strips.
3 Turn the strips on edge. Rotate every strip 90° so the planed faces touch each other. The sawn edges now face up and down. This is what makes it an edge-grain board: tough, flat glue joints with no jointing.
4 Arrange two boards. Lay out 9 strips for Board A and 6 for Board B. Mix colour and grain, and flip strips so the growth rings on the ends alternate up and down. Draw a big chalk triangle across each set so you can put them back in order.
5 Glue Board A. Spread glue on the faces, not the sawn edges. Clamp with cauls across the top and bottom to keep the strips level, alternating clamps over and under. Glue it in two halves first if 9 strips feel like too many at once. Leave overnight.
6 Glue Board B. Same again with 6 strips. Every joint is long grain to long grain, with all the grain running the same way, so the board moves as one piece.
7 Flatten both boards. Scrape off the dried glue. Board B (10½" wide) fits most benchtop planers. Board A (15¾") is too wide for most, so use a router sled, a hand plane or a belt sander. Take both down to about 1½".
8 Trim to length. Cut both ends square at 22" with a track saw, a circular saw and a straightedge, or a crosscut sled. Board A is too wide for most mitre saws.
9 Shape the edges. Round over or chamfer all edges. For a juice groove, use a ½" core-box bit with an edge guide, ¾" in from the edge, on one face only.
10 Sand. Sand 80 → 120 → 180 → 220. Wipe with a damp cloth to raise the grain, let it dry, and sand again at 220.
11 Oil and wax. Flood every surface with board oil. Let it soak overnight, wipe off the excess and repeat until it stops soaking in. Finish with board wax.

Why turn the strips on edge? The planed faces are already flat and smooth, so they make perfect glue surfaces. You only have to straighten the rough board edges once, before ripping.

Edge grain or end grain? Edge grain is simpler, flatter and more stable. It is a little harder on knives than end grain, but it shrugs off years of daily chopping.

Does wood movement matter here? Yes. Every strip runs the same way, so the whole board swells and shrinks across its width as one piece. Don't glue or screw cross-grain cleats to it. Screwed-on rubber feet are fine.

Make It Yours

Two-species stripes: swap a few strips with a walnut or maple pack for bold stripes.
Juice groove: rout it on one face of Board A for carving roasts.
Finger grips: rout a shallow cove under each end so the boards are easy to lift.

Safety and Care

Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
Rip the strips with a push stick and keep the board's flat face down on the saw table. Never rip a board that rocks — straighten it first.
Thick boards are heavy. Support Board A on a stand or sled when planing or trimming.
Wear a dust mask when cutting and sanding, especially exotics (padauk, purpleheart, sapele).

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a jointer?

The 6–8" wide 8/4 pack comes S2S (faces planed, edges rough). Straighten the edges with a jointer, a table saw and a straight-line jig, a track saw, or a hand plane.

Which woods are food safe?

Walnut, maple, cherry, oak, sapele, padauk and purpleheart are all fine for cutting boards. Skip aromatic cedar for anything that touches food. Wear a dust mask when cutting exotics like padauk, purpleheart and sapele — the dust irritates.

My boards are wider than 5½". What then?

Still rip three 1¾" strips from each one. The extra width comes off as a thin offcut — keep it for coasters or a small cheese board.

How do I look after them?

Hand wash, dry on edge, never put them in the dishwasher. Oil once a month, or whenever they look dry.

How much wood is left over?

Planned offcuts only: about 1" trimmed off the strip ends, plus a thin strip from any board wider than 5½". All 5 boards go into the two butcher blocks.

Can I use the other pack length?

Yes. A 4ft wide pack makes four boards: crosscut every board in half first, then follow this plan twice. Or keep the strips long for a 46" countertop-length block — you'll need longer clamps.