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Wall Bottle Opener Plaque[4/4 · 2ft · 5-Pack]
One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 10 bottle opener plaques
Shop Black Walnut 4/4 · 2ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 2' Lengths
*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.
A hardwood wall plaque with a cast-iron bottle opener up top and a hidden magnet below that catches the caps. Each board makes two plaques, so one 2ft pack makes ten: one for the garage, the deck or the bar, and nine for gifts. Burn on a name or a logo and they're ready to wrap.
Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers
| Part | Qty | From | S4S size | S2S size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plaques | 10 | Two per board | 10" × 4" × ¾" | 10" × 3½" × ⅞" |
| Wall bottle opener (buy) | 10 | One per plaque | about 1¾" × 3½" | about 1¾" × 3½" |
| Rare-earth disc magnet (buy) | 10 | One per plaque | ¾" Ø × ¼", in a ⅝"-deep pocket | ¾" Ø × ¼", in a ¾"-deep pocket |
| Wood plugs, ⅜" (buy or cut) | 20 | Two per plaque | ⅜" Ø | ⅜" Ø |
No joinery: each plaque is a 10" crosscut, two per board.
Magnet: ¾" rare-earth disc epoxied into a ¾" Forstner pocket from the back, 2½" up from the bottom, leaving about ⅛" of wood on the face.
Opener: screwed on the centre line, top 1¾" down from the top end.
Mount: 2 × #10 × 2½" screws into one stud, 1" in from each end, counterbored ⅜" and plugged.
Finished size: S4S 10" × 4" × ¾" · S2S 10" × 3½" × ⅞". The opener stands out about ¾" from the face.
Before You Start
Shopping List
- 1 lumber pack — 4/4 · 2ft (S4S or S2S)
- 10 cast-iron or stainless wall-mount bottle openers (with screws)
- 10 rare-earth (N52) disc magnets, ¾" Ø × ¼"
- 5-minute epoxy
- 20 × #10 × 2½" screws, or rated wall anchors
- 20 × ⅜" wood plugs
- Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
- Finish: wipe-on oil, hardwax oil or water-based poly
Tools
- Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square)
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, pilot bits
- ¾" Forstner bit, ⅜" counterbore bit
- Drill press or a depth stop (helps)
- Router with ¼" roundover bit (or sand by hand)
- Stud finder and level
- Random-orbit sander or sanding block
- S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
Step-by-Step
- 1 Cut the plaques. Square one end of each board. Clamp a stop block at 10" and cut two plaques from every board. That gives you ten plaques, 4" wide. Pick the best face of each for the front.
- 2 Shape the edges. Round the two top corners if you like (trace a jar lid). Then round over the front edges with a ¼" roundover bit, or sand them soft by hand.
- 3 Lay out the face. Draw a centre line down the front. Mark the mounting screws 1" in from the top and bottom ends. Set the opener on the line with its top 1¾" down from the top end. Mark the magnet centre 2½" up from the bottom.
- 4 Drill the magnet pocket. Turn the plaque face down. Drill a ¾" Forstner hole at the magnet mark, ⅝" deep. That leaves about ⅛" of wood on the front. Set a depth stop and test on a scrap first. A drill press makes this easy.
- 5 Counterbore the screw holes. From the front, drill a ⅜" counterbore ¼" deep at each mounting mark. Then drill a clearance hole for a #10 screw the rest of the way through.
- 6 Sand and personalise. Sand 120 → 180 → 220. Now is the time to burn or engrave a name, a date or a logo below the opener.
- 7 Finish. Wipe-on oil or hardwax oil, 2–3 coats. Let it cure fully.
- 8 Fit the magnet and opener. Glue the magnet into its pocket with 5-minute epoxy, pressed to the bottom. Pre-drill the opener's holes and screw it on. Use screws no longer than ⅝" so they don't poke out the back.
- 9 Hang it. Find a stud. Hold the plaque on the stud, level it and pre-drill through both holes. Drive #10 × 2½" screws into the stud. Glue in the plugs, trim flush and touch up the finish. Opening a bottle pulls hard on the plaque, so plan for 25 lb of pull. Two screws in a stud handle that easily. No stud? Use two anchors rated for at least 25 lb each.
- 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish ⅞" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
- 2 Cut the plaques. Square one end of each board. Clamp a stop block at 10" and cut two plaques from every board. That gives you ten plaques, 3½" wide. Pick the best face of each for the front.
- 3 Shape the edges. Round the two top corners if you like (trace a jar lid). Then round over the front edges with a ¼" roundover bit, or sand them soft by hand.
- 4 Lay out the face. Draw a centre line down the front. Mark the mounting screws 1" in from the top and bottom ends. Set the opener on the line with its top 1¾" down from the top end. Mark the magnet centre 2½" up from the bottom.
- 5 Drill the magnet pocket. Turn the plaque face down. Drill a ¾" Forstner hole at the magnet mark, ¾" deep. That leaves about ⅛" of wood on the front. Set a depth stop and test on a scrap first. A drill press makes this easy.
- 6 Counterbore the screw holes. From the front, drill a ⅜" counterbore ¼" deep at each mounting mark. Then drill a clearance hole for a #10 screw the rest of the way through.
- 7 Sand and personalise. Sand 120 → 180 → 220. Now is the time to burn or engrave a name, a date or a logo below the opener.
- 8 Finish. Wipe-on oil or hardwax oil, 2–3 coats. Let it cure fully.
- 9 Fit the magnet and opener. Glue the magnet into its pocket with 5-minute epoxy, pressed to the bottom. Pre-drill the opener's holes and screw it on. Use screws no longer than ¾" so they don't poke out the back.
- 10 Hang it. Find a stud. Hold the plaque on the stud, level it and pre-drill through both holes. Drive #10 × 2½" screws into the stud. Glue in the plugs, trim flush and touch up the finish. Opening a bottle pulls hard on the plaque, so plan for 25 lb of pull. Two screws in a stud handle that easily. No stud? Use two anchors rated for at least 25 lb each.
Make It Yours
- Branding: wood-burn a name, a bar logo or a wedding date below the opener.
- Stronger catch: stack two magnets in the pocket (it is deep enough for both) for a bigger cap pile.
- Keyhole hang: for a light-use plaque, rout a keyhole slot in the back instead of the face screws. It may lift if you pull up hard.
Safety and Care
- Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
- Clamp the plaque when drilling the magnet pocket. A Forstner bit can grab and spin a small part.
- Rare-earth magnets snap together hard and can pinch. Keep them away from kids and from phones and cards.
- Pre-drill every screw — hardwoods split without a pilot hole.
- Mount into wall studs (or rated anchors sized for the load). Check for wires and pipes before drilling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.
A ¾" × ¼" magnet under ⅛" of wood holds a stack of about 8–10 steel caps. Empty it now and then, or stack two magnets for more.
Hardware stores and online shops sell cast-iron and stainless wall openers. Most are about 1¾" × 3½" with two screw holes. Check the screws that come with it are shorter than the plaque is thick.
Yes, on a covered deck or a bar shed. Use a stainless opener and exterior screws, and finish with an exterior oil. Re-oil every spring.
Planned offcuts only: about 1" squaring off each board and about 3" left at the end. Those offcuts make coasters or small keychain tags. All 5 boards go into the plaques.
Yes. A 4ft pack makes 20 plaques: four per board. Or make ten longer 20" plaques with a bigger cap catch and room for a name.
