Blanket Ladder [8/4 · 4ft · 5-Pack]

on October 02, 2026

Blanket Ladder[8/4 · 4ft · 5-Pack]

One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 2 blanket ladders

Blanket Ladder built from one 8/4 · 4ft lumber pack (shown in black walnut)

23½" W × about 45" H each

Build This Project

Pack 8/4 · 4ft · 5-Pack Uses 1 pack, all 5 boards Shown in Black WalnutON SALE Also in Hard Maple, Cherry, White Oak, Red Oak, Ash, Hickory, Ambrosia Maple, Sapele, Padauk, Purpleheart Shipping Free shipping

Shop This Pack or choose another species →select 4' Lengths / 4-6"

How it goes together

Makes 2 ladders

Skill Beginner+

Time Weekend

Boards All 5 used

Black Walnut Hard Maple Cherry White Oak Red Oak Ash Hickory Ambrosia Maple Sapele* Padauk* Purpleheart*

*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.

A chunky leaning ladder for throws, quilts and towels. Two rails and five rungs, all ripped from thick 8/4 stock, joined with counterbored screws and wood plugs. The rail ends are cut at 10° so the ladder stands flat on the floor and leans on the wall. One 4ft pack makes two ladders, with two spare rungs.

Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers

Part	Qty	From	S4S size	S2S size
Rails	4	Boards 1–2, ripped in half	46" × 1 15/16" × 1¾", ends at 10°	46" × 1 11/16" × 1¾", ends at 10°
Rungs	12 (10 used)	Boards 3–5, ripped in half, 2 per strip	20" × 1 15/16" × 1¾"	20" × 1 11/16" × 1¾"

Rails: boards 1–2 ripped in half, 46" long point to long point, both ends cut parallel at 10°.

Rungs: 20", 5 per ladder at 8" centres from the bottom. #10 × 3½" screws through the rails into the rung ends, ⅜" counterbores, glued plugs. Or use 2 × ⅜" glued dowels per joint.

Width: 20" rungs + two 1¾" rails = 23½".

Finished size: S4S 23½" W × about 45¼" H, rails 1¾" × 1 15/16" · S2S 23½" W × about 45¼" H, rails 1¾" × 1 11/16". Leans about 8" out from the wall.

Before You Start

Shopping List

1 lumber pack — 8/4 · 4ft (S4S or S2S)
20 × #10 × 3½" flat-head wood screws
20 × ⅜" face-grain wood plugs (or cut your own with a plug cutter)
Wood glue (Titebond II or III) — for the plugs
Felt pads
Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
Finish: wipe-on oil, hardwax oil or water-based poly

Tools

Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square) — with a 10° mitre
Saw for rips (table saw, or circular/track saw with a guide)
Drill/driver, countersink bit, pilot bits
⅜" Forstner or brad-point bit
Flush-cut saw
2 bar clamps, 24" or longer
Random-orbit sander or sanding block
S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane

S4S or S2S? S4S boards arrive flat and square on all four sides — cut and build. S2S boards have rough edges you straighten first. No jointer? Choose S4S.

Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · S4S boards 1¾" × 4", ¼" to square an end · S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (3½" clean); we plan S2S at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.

Step-by-Step

✓

S4S Lumber Pack

Surfaced 4 sides — no jointing

1 Sort the boards. Boards 1 and 2 become the four rails. Boards 3, 4 and 5 become the rungs. Give the straightest boards to the rails.
2 Rip all five boards in half. Set the fence at 1 15/16" and rip each board down its length. You now have 10 strips, 1 15/16" × 1¾".
3 Cut the rungs. Square one end of each rung strip, clamp a stop block at 20", and cut two rungs from each strip — 12 rungs. Pick the best 10; the other two are spares.
4 Cut the rail ends at 10°. Set the mitre saw to 10°. Cut one end of a rail, measure 46" along the long edge, and cut the other end at the same angle, parallel to the first. Both ends lean the same way. Repeat for all four rails.
5 Mark the rungs. Lay a pair of rails side by side, ends level. Measure from the bottom end and square a line across both at 8, 16, 24, 32, 40". These are the rung centres. The 10° ends must point the same way on both rails so the feet sit flat.
6 Sand before you build. Sand every part 120 → 180 → 220 and round all the long edges with a ¼" roundover or sandpaper. Smooth rails won't snag a knitted blanket.
7 Drill the rails. On the outside face of each rail, at every mark, drill a ⅜" counterbore ⅜" deep, centred on the rail. Then drill a clearance hole for a #10 screw through the rest of the rail.
8 Assemble one side. Stand the rungs on end on one rail, centred on the marks. Drill a pilot hole into each rung end and drive a #10 × 3½" screw. No glue here — glue does little on end grain. The screws carry the joint.
9 Add the second rail. Flip the ladder, set the second rail on the rung ends and screw it the same way. The ladder is 23½" wide. Check it is square by measuring the diagonals — they should match.
10 Plug and finish. Glue ⅜" wood plugs into the counterbores with the grain lined up, saw them flush and sand. Wipe on oil or hardwax oil. Stick felt pads on the feet and the back of the top ends.

2

S2S Lumber Pack

Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first

1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish 1¾" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
2 Sort the boards. Boards 1 and 2 become the four rails. Boards 3, 4 and 5 become the rungs. Give the straightest boards to the rails.
3 Rip all five boards in half. Set the fence at 1 11/16" and rip each board down its length. You now have 10 strips, 1 11/16" × 1¾".
4 Cut the rungs. Square one end of each rung strip, clamp a stop block at 20", and cut two rungs from each strip — 12 rungs. Pick the best 10; the other two are spares.
5 Cut the rail ends at 10°. Set the mitre saw to 10°. Cut one end of a rail, measure 46" along the long edge, and cut the other end at the same angle, parallel to the first. Both ends lean the same way. Repeat for all four rails.
6 Mark the rungs. Lay a pair of rails side by side, ends level. Measure from the bottom end and square a line across both at 8, 16, 24, 32, 40". These are the rung centres. The 10° ends must point the same way on both rails so the feet sit flat.
7 Sand before you build. Sand every part 120 → 180 → 220 and round all the long edges with a ¼" roundover or sandpaper. Smooth rails won't snag a knitted blanket.
8 Drill the rails. On the outside face of each rail, at every mark, drill a ⅜" counterbore ⅜" deep, centred on the rail. Then drill a clearance hole for a #10 screw through the rest of the rail.
9 Assemble one side. Stand the rungs on end on one rail, centred on the marks. Drill a pilot hole into each rung end and drive a #10 × 3½" screw. No glue here — glue does little on end grain. The screws carry the joint.
10 Add the second rail. Flip the ladder, set the second rail on the rung ends and screw it the same way. The ladder is 23½" wide. Check it is square by measuring the diagonals — they should match.
11 Plug and finish. Glue ⅜" wood plugs into the counterbores with the grain lined up, saw them flush and sand. Wipe on oil or hardwax oil. Stick felt pads on the feet and the back of the top ends.

Why no glue on the rungs? The rung ends are end grain. Glue soaks into end grain and holds very little, so the screws do the work. If you want glue, use ⅜" dowels instead — the dowel glues long grain into the hole.

Why cut the ends at 10°? The ladder leans 10° back from upright. Cutting both ends at that angle lets the feet sit flat on the floor and the top looks level against the wall.

Does wood movement matter? Very little. Each rung is under 2" wide where it meets the rail, so the cross-grain joint barely moves. Finish all faces equally so the rails stay straight.

Why pre-drill? Maple, oak and hickory split if you drive a screw without a pilot hole. Pre-drill every screw and countersink so the heads sit flush.

Make It Yours

Towel ladder: use the two spare rungs to make a short third ladder for the bathroom.
Rounded rungs: round the rungs fully with a ½" roundover for a softer look.
Contrast plugs: walnut plugs in a maple ladder show off the joinery.

Safety and Care

Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
Decorative — do not climb. This ladder holds blankets, not people. Keep it away from kids who like to climb.
Set the ladder on a non-slip floor and add felt pads so it does not slide. In a home with small children, fix the top to the wall with a small bracket.
Pre-drill every screw — hardwoods split without a pilot hole.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a jointer?

Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.

Can I climb it?

No. It is a decorative ladder with screwed butt joints. It is made to hold blankets and towels only.

How much weight will it hold?

Several heavy quilts with no problem. Keep the load spread out and don't hang anything heavier than bedding or towels.

Can I make it taller?

Not from this pack — the rails use the full 46". For a taller ladder, buy a longer board for the rails and use this pack's rungs.

How much wood is left over?

Planned offcuts only: about 1" off the end of each rail strip, about 7" off each rung strip, and two spare rungs. All 5 boards go into the ladders.

Can I use the other pack length?

No. The rails need the full 46" of a 4ft pack. A 2ft pack is too short for a ladder. Use a 2ft 8/4 pack for our chunky bookends or tumbling tower instead.