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Heavy Hardwood Door Stops[8/4 · 2ft · 5-Pack]
One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 20 door stops
Shop Black Walnut 8/4 · 2ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 2' Lengths / 4-6"
How it goes together
Black Walnut
Hard Maple
Cherry
White Oak
Red Oak
Ash
Hickory
Ambrosia Maple
Sapele*
Padauk*
Purpleheart*
*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.
Chunky hardwood wedges that hold a door open and stay put. Each one is 9" long and solid, with a finger hole to pick it up and a rubber pad underneath so it grips the floor. One 8/4 pack makes 20 — enough for every door in the house and a stack to give away in pairs.
Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers
| Part | Qty | From | S4S size | S2S size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wedge blocks | 10 | Boards 1–5, two each | 9" × 4" × 1¾" | 9" × 3½" × 1¾" |
| Wedges (from the blocks) | 20 | Wedge blocks, two each | 9" × 4" × ⅛" to about 1½" | 9" × 3½" × ⅛" to about 1½" |
Wedges: each 9" block is bandsawn on a diagonal through its thickness — two wedges per block, tapering from about 1½" to ⅛".
Finger hole: 1" Forstner hole, 1¼" from the tall end, drilled straight through.
Grip: rubber or silicone pad glued to the bottom with contact cement. No joints and no glue between wood parts.
Finished size: S4S 9" L × 4" W × about 1½" H, tapering to ⅛" · S2S 9" × 3½" × about 1½".
Before You Start
Shopping List
- 1 lumber pack — 8/4 · 2ft (S4S or S2S)
- Rubber or silicone non-slip pad, about 2 sq ft (rug pad or a non-slip mat works)
- Contact cement
- Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
- Finish: hardwax oil
Tools
- Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square) — with a stop block
- Bandsaw and push block
- Belt sander or a sanding board
- Drill or drill press with a 1" Forstner bit
- Tape measure, combination square, pencil
- Random-orbit sander or sanding block
- S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
S4S or S2S? S4S boards arrive flat and square on all four sides — cut and build. S2S boards have rough edges you straighten first. No jointer? Choose S4S.
Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · S4S boards 1¾" × 4", ¼" to square an end · S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (3½" clean); we plan S2S at 1¾" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.
Step-by-Step
S4S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 4 sides — no jointing
- 1 One board, four door stops. Each board gives two blocks, and each block saws into two wedges. Keep each board's parts together if you want matching pairs.
- 2 Crosscut the blocks. Square one end of each board. Clamp a stop block at 9" and cut two blocks from every board — ten blocks in all.
- 3 Mark the taper. On one long 9" × 1¾" edge of each block, draw a line from ⅛" up at one end to ⅛" down from the top at the other end. Each wedge then keeps a ⅛" tip instead of a fragile knife edge.
- 4 Saw the wedges. Stand the block on its other long edge, 4" tall, with the line facing up. Feed it through the bandsaw along the line, with a push block on the back end. Saw just to the waste side of the line. Each block gives two wedges, 9" long, tapering from about 1 9/16" to ⅛".
- 5 Smooth the slope. Clamp a belt sander upside down in the vise, or tape 80-grit paper to a flat board, and sand the sawn faces flat and smooth. Keep the bottom face flat — it is the side that sits on the floor.
- 6 Drill the finger hole. Mark a point 1¼" from the tall end, centred across the width. Clamp the wedge flat on a scrap and drill straight down with a 1" Forstner bit. Drill halfway from the top, flip, and finish from the bottom so it doesn't tear out.
- 7 Round the edges. Sand a small round on every edge, 120 → 180 → 220. Leave the thin tip a little blunt so it slides under the door without splintering.
- 8 Finish. Wipe on hardwax oil, two coats, on every face. Let it cure fully before you add the pads.
- 9 Add the grip pad. Cut rubber or silicone non-slip pad to the size of the bottom. Glue it on with contact cement and press it down with a roller. The pad stops the wedge sliding on tile and hardwood floors.
S2S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first
- 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish 1¾" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
- 2 One board, four door stops. Each board gives two blocks, and each block saws into two wedges. Keep each board's parts together if you want matching pairs.
- 3 Crosscut the blocks. Square one end of each board. Clamp a stop block at 9" and cut two blocks from every board — ten blocks in all.
- 4 Mark the taper. On one long 9" × 1¾" edge of each block, draw a line from ⅛" up at one end to ⅛" down from the top at the other end. Each wedge then keeps a ⅛" tip instead of a fragile knife edge.
- 5 Saw the wedges. Stand the block on its other long edge, 3½" tall, with the line facing up. Feed it through the bandsaw along the line, with a push block on the back end. Saw just to the waste side of the line. Each block gives two wedges, 9" long, tapering from about 1 9/16" to ⅛".
- 6 Smooth the slope. Clamp a belt sander upside down in the vise, or tape 80-grit paper to a flat board, and sand the sawn faces flat and smooth. Keep the bottom face flat — it is the side that sits on the floor.
- 7 Drill the finger hole. Mark a point 1¼" from the tall end, centred across the width. Clamp the wedge flat on a scrap and drill straight down with a 1" Forstner bit. Drill halfway from the top, flip, and finish from the bottom so it doesn't tear out.
- 8 Round the edges. Sand a small round on every edge, 120 → 180 → 220. Leave the thin tip a little blunt so it slides under the door without splintering.
- 9 Finish. Wipe on hardwax oil, two coats, on every face. Let it cure fully before you add the pads.
- 10 Add the grip pad. Cut rubber or silicone non-slip pad to the size of the bottom. Glue it on with contact cement and press it down with a roller. The pad stops the wedge sliding on tile and hardwood floors.
Why leave a ⅛" tip? A knife-thin tip splinters and breaks the first time it gets kicked. A ⅛" tip is still thin enough to slide under most doors, and it lasts.
Why stand the block on edge to cut it? On edge, the block is 4" tall and stable on the bandsaw table, and the line is on top where you can see it. Laying it flat would mean balancing a thin, tapering part against the blade.
Why a rubber pad? Hardwood on tile or a finished floor slides. The pad grips, so the door stays open, and it saves the floor from scratches.
Make It Yours
- Name them: burn or carve a name or a room on the slope and give them away in pairs.
- Mixed species: make a set from several boards — walnut, maple and cherry side by side look great.
- Hanging hole: the finger hole doubles as a hanging hole — keep one on a hook by each door.
Safety and Care
- Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
- Cut the wedges on a bandsaw only, never on a table saw. Use a push block so your fingers stay well clear of the blade at the end of the cut.
- Clamp the wedge to a scrap when you drill the finger hole. A spinning Forstner bit can grab a loose part.
- Wear a dust mask when cutting and sanding, especially exotics (padauk, purpleheart, sapele).
Frequently Asked Questions
Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.
The tip is ⅛" and the slope rises slowly, so it fits under most interior doors. For a door with a very small gap, sand the tip thinner. For a big gap, it still works — the door just rides farther up the slope.
They are cut from 1¾" thick hardwood. The weight and the rubber pad keep them from skidding when a draft pushes on the door.
Yes, for a garage or patio door. Use white oak if you can and refinish with hardwax oil every season.
Planned offcuts only: the end trim and about 5" off the end of each board. The diagonal cut itself only loses a saw kerf. All 5 boards go into the door stops.
Yes. A 4ft pack makes 50 door stops: cut five 9" blocks from each board instead of two.
