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Wall-Mounted Shoe Bin[4/4 · 4ft · 5-Pack]
One pack. One build. All 5 boards used. • Makes 1 shoe bin
Shop Black Walnut 4/4 · 4ft Pack Shop All Speciesselect 4' Lengths
How it goes together
Black Walnut
Hard Maple
Cherry
White Oak (QS)
Red Oak
Ash
Hickory
Ambrosia Maple
Sapele*
Padauk*
Purpleheart*
*Exotic — not available for shipment to US customers.
A long, shallow bin that hangs on the wall and gets shoes off the floor. Shoes stand heel-down in the bin with the toes leaning on the wall, so they take up almost no floor space and dry out between wears. The bottom is two boards edge-glued, the back and a low front rail are screwed to its edges, and the whole thing hangs on a French cleat screwed into two studs.
Quick Build — for experienced woodworkers
| Part | Qty | From | S4S size | S2S size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom halves | 2 | Boards 1–2 | 46" × 4" × ¾" | 46" × 3½" × ⅞" |
| Back | 1 | Board 3 | 46" × 4" × ¾" | 46" × 3½" × ⅞" |
| Front rail | 1 | Board 4, ripped | 46" × 2½" × ¾" | 46" × 2½" × ⅞" |
| Spacer | 1 | Board 4, rest of width | 27½" × 1⅜" × ¾" | 27½" × ⅞" × ⅞" |
| Ends | 2 | Board 5 | 9½" × 4" × ¾" | 8¾" × 3½" × ⅞" |
| French cleat (2 halves) | 1 | Board 5 | 27½" × 4" × ¾", ripped at 45° | 27½" × 3½" × ⅞", ripped at 45° |
Bottom: boards 1–2 edge-glued, grain running the long way.
Back and front rail: glued and screwed to the bottom's rear and front edges, flush underneath — long grain to long grain.
Ends: screwed only (no glue) over the ends of the back, bottom and rail.
Hanging: 45° French cleat from board 5 plus a spacer at the bottom; wall half into 2 studs.
Finished size: S4S 47½" L × 9½" D × 4" H at the back, 2½" at the front · S2S 47¾" × 8¾" × 3½". Holds about 5–6 pairs of adult shoes.
Before You Start
Shopping List
- 1 lumber pack — 4/4 · 4ft (S4S or S2S)
- Wood glue (Titebond II or III)
- About 30 × #8 flat-head screws: 1¼" and 1½" (S4S) or 1½" and 1¾" (S2S)
- 3–4 × #10 × 3" screws for the wall cleat
- Sandpaper 120 / 180 / 220
- Finish: wipe-on oil, hardwax oil or water-based poly
Tools
- Saw for crosscuts (mitre saw or circular saw with a speed square)
- Saw for rips (table saw, or circular/track saw with a guide) — with 45° bevel for the cleat
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, pilot bits
- 4–5 bar clamps, 12" or longer
- Stud finder and 24" level
- Random-orbit sander or sanding block
- S2S only: jointer, straight-line rip jig or hand plane
S4S or S2S? S4S boards arrive flat and square on all four sides — cut and build. S2S boards have rough edges you straighten first, and finish ⅞" thick instead of ¾". No jointer? Choose S4S.
Our sizing assumptions: ⅛" per saw cut · S4S boards 23½"/47½" long with ¼" to square an end, 4" wide, ¾" thick · S2S boards trimmed ½" each end and ¼" off each rough edge (3½" clean), ⅞" thick · sizes drawn for the narrowest board in the pack. Wider boards give you a bigger offcut or a wider part — never a shortage.
Step-by-Step
S4S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 4 sides — no jointing
- 1 Cut the long parts. Square one end of boards 1–4 and crosscut each to 46". Boards 1–2 are the bottom, board 3 the back, board 4 the front rail.
- 2 Glue up the bottom. Edge-glue boards 1 and 2 into one panel, 46" × 8". Keep the ends flush and the faces level. Clamp every 10–12", wipe the squeeze-out once rubbery, and leave it overnight.
- 3 Rip the front rail. Rip board 4 to 2½" wide. From the leftover strip, cut a 27½" spacer.
- 4 Cut the ends and cleat. Crosscut 2 ends at 9½" from board 5. The rest is the cleat blank: trim it to 27½", set the blade to 45° and rip it down the middle of its edge. You get two matching cleat halves.
- 5 Attach the back. Stand the back against the rear edge of the bottom, flush underneath and at both ends. Glue the joint and drive pre-drilled, countersunk #8 × 1¼" screws through the back into the bottom's edge, every 6".
- 6 Attach the front rail. Same as the back, on the front edge. Glue and screw it the same way, flush underneath and at the ends.
- 7 Add the ends. Each end covers the ends of the back, bottom and rail. Screw only, no glue — you would be gluing to end grain. Use 6 pre-drilled #8 × 1½" screws per end: 2 into the back, 2 into the bottom, 2 into the rail.
- 8 Fit the cleat and spacer. Glue and screw one cleat half to the back of the bin, flush with the top, long face against the bin and the bevel pointing down toward the wall. Glue the spacer along the bottom of the back. It is the same thickness as the cleat, so the bin hangs plumb.
- 9 Sand and finish. Sand 120 → 180 → 220, ease every edge, and apply 2–3 coats of wipe-on oil or water-based poly. Let it cure before loading shoes.
- 10 Hang it. Find two studs. Level the second cleat half on the wall, bevel up and pointing at the wall, and screw it into both studs with #10 × 3" screws. Lift the bin and drop its cleat over the wall cleat.
S2S Lumber Pack
Surfaced 2 sides — straighten edges first
- 1 Prep the boards. Trim ½" off each end to remove any end checks. Joint one edge straight, then rip the other edge parallel (¼" off each rough edge is our planning allowance). S2S boards finish ⅞" thick, so screws and some sizes change — use the sizes in this column.
- 2 Cut the long parts. Square one end of boards 1–4 and crosscut each to 46". Boards 1–2 are the bottom, board 3 the back, board 4 the front rail.
- 3 Glue up the bottom. Edge-glue boards 1 and 2 into one panel, 46" × 7". Keep the ends flush and the faces level. Clamp every 10–12", wipe the squeeze-out once rubbery, and leave it overnight.
- 4 Rip the front rail. Rip board 4 to 2½" wide. From the leftover strip, cut a 27½" spacer.
- 5 Cut the ends and cleat. Crosscut 2 ends at 8¾" from board 5. The rest is the cleat blank: trim it to 27½", set the blade to 45° and rip it down the middle of its edge. You get two matching cleat halves.
- 6 Attach the back. Stand the back against the rear edge of the bottom, flush underneath and at both ends. Glue the joint and drive pre-drilled, countersunk #8 × 1½" screws through the back into the bottom's edge, every 6".
- 7 Attach the front rail. Same as the back, on the front edge. Glue and screw it the same way, flush underneath and at the ends.
- 8 Add the ends. Each end covers the ends of the back, bottom and rail. Screw only, no glue — you would be gluing to end grain. Use 6 pre-drilled #8 × 1¾" screws per end: 2 into the back, 2 into the bottom, 2 into the rail.
- 9 Fit the cleat and spacer. Glue and screw one cleat half to the back of the bin, flush with the top, long face against the bin and the bevel pointing down toward the wall. Glue the spacer along the bottom of the back. It is the same thickness as the cleat, so the bin hangs plumb.
- 10 Sand and finish. Sand 120 → 180 → 220, ease every edge, and apply 2–3 coats of wipe-on oil or water-based poly. Let it cure before loading shoes.
- 11 Hang it. Find two studs. Level the second cleat half on the wall, bevel up and pointing at the wall, and screw it into both studs with #10 × 3" screws. Lift the bin and drop its cleat over the wall cleat.
Why a French cleat? The wall half is screwed into two studs and the bin simply drops onto it. The 45° bevels pull the bin tight to the wall, and you can lift it off to clean behind it.
Why no glue on the ends? The ends meet the back, bottom and rail on their end grain, and end grain doesn't hold glue. The bottom panel also swells and shrinks across its depth through the seasons. Screws alone let it move.
Why pre-drill? Maple, oak and hickory split if you drive a screw without a pilot hole. Pre-drill every screw and countersink so the heads sit flush.
Make It Yours
- Sloped ends: before you attach the ends, taper the top from 4" at the back down to 2½" at the front.
- Boot length: skip the front rail cut and use board 4 full width for a taller front.
- Two-tone: walnut ends and front rail on a maple bin.
Safety and Care
- Wear eye and hearing protection. Use a push stick for every rip under 4" wide.
- Rip the 45° cleat with the blade tilted away from the fence and use a push stick. Never stand behind the blade.
- Pre-drill every screw — hardwoods split without a pilot hole.
- Mount into wall studs (or rated anchors sized for the load). Check for wires and pipes before drilling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Not for S4S boards — they arrive flat and square on all four sides. S2S boards need their edges straightened: a jointer, a table saw with a straight-line jig, or a hand plane all work. No jointer? Choose the S4S pack.
Put the bottom of the bin about 12–18" off the floor. Shoes stand heel-down with the toes against the wall above the bin, so leave room for your tallest pair.
Ankle boots, yes. Tall boots tip over a 4" back — hang those on a peg rack instead. Keep the total load under about 25 lb.
Yes. Drywall alone won't hold a loaded bin. The 27½" cleat spans one stud bay, so it always reaches two studs at 16" centres.
Planned offcuts only: about 1" off the ends of boards 1–4, about 20" of the thin strip on board 4, and a short piece at the end of board 5. All 5 boards go into the bin.
No. The bin needs 46" parts, so this is a 4ft-pack build. A 2ft pack is too short for the bottom, back and rail.
